Many overlanding enthusiasts dream of working and living on the road full-time, but the reality is that while that particular daydream does often end up being all that it is cracked up to be, it also requires a ton of prep, mental fortitude and commitment. Lucky for you, we did the hard work of rounding up the top tips for trying your hand at remote work from the road. While it’s not always sunshine and daisies, it is always an adventure… just like we overlanders like things. Read on and get started researching how to work from the road as a digital nomad.

1. Invest in Reliable Internet

If you’re set on trying to work from the road, you’re probably working from your computer at least some of the time, which means you are going to need reliable internet. After all, if you’re going to convince your boss that being permanently OOO (out of office) is totally going to work, you’re going to need to be reliable and easy to reach. Luckily, there are plenty of options for remote internet access. Your options include:

• Invest in a mobile hotspot/router (e.g., Verizon Jetpack, T-Mobile Inseego).
• Use multiple carriers: Get SIM cards or plans from at least two providers (for redundancy).
• Consider Starlink Roam if you’re often off-grid (expensive but fast).
• Use signal-boosting gear (e.g., weBoost cell signal boosters) in low-coverage areas.
• Apps like Coverage? and OpenSignal can help find strong signals.

2. Power Up on the Go

Managing power while trying to work from the road sounds like a pain, but with today’s technology and options, it doesn’t have to be. One of the most reliable routes you can take to stay connected and charged on the road is to install a solar power setup with an inverter and lithium batteries — EcoFlow is a good option. You should also have multiple charging methods ready to roll, in case there’s a failure. Invest in solar, a vehicle alternator, and the ability to access an external standard 110V or 220V electrical outlet. It’s also a good idea to know your gear’s typical power draw, so that you can plan effectively and manage your energy use wisely.

3. Create a Dedicated (and Ergonomic) Work Space

Take a card out of studio apartment design when it comes to remote work from the road: You may be living in small quarters, but that shouldn’t stop you from carving out a specific area dedicated to working. This could look like installing a fold-out desk, a swivel front seat plus desk combo, or any other creative means of creating your “work zone.” Portable tech will help here — use a laptop stand, external keyboard and mouse, and other tools to make yourself as comfortable as possible. Wherever you’re working in your rig, prioritize posture and comfort. Even desk jockeys tethered to an office know that long hours in one position (especially your vehicle’s seat) will result in lots of back pain and stiffness, so consider a standing desk option such as a Daylodge Remote Office or a Lagun table mount for a DIY set up where you can adjust the height to sit or stand as needed. Invest in a quality pair of noise-cancelling headphones — they’ll provide peace in environments where you may not be able to control the noise around you, and will cut down on mental fatigue from trying to concentrate in a less-than-ideal environment.

4. Stay Organized

Whether it’s your literal stuff, or your digital belongings like files, it’s important to develop and stick to an organizational system early, or suffer the consequences later on. No two people’s process of staying organized will look the same — just ask any couple that’s been married for a long time — but, there are some best practices to keep in mind here. Utilize cloud storage (Google Drive, Dropbox, etc.) to make sure you never lose your work in case signal cuts out. Productivity tools are essentially baked into remote work, but even if you’re freelance, systems like Trello, Notion or Slack could help you stay up to date and on track with projects.

Keep your physical space tidy! This is a golden rule for all overlanders that don’t want to stress themselves out for no reason other than being lazy, but if you’re trying to combine your career and four wheels, then you definitely need to stay one step ahead of messes. Reduce clutter by identifying a home for everything you own. Use bins, overhead storage, label makers… whatever you have to, in order to stay on top of messes. While you’re on the move, secure your equipment using bins, baskets, Velcro or other types of organizers.

5. Plan Ahead for Parking & Work Spots

Work from the road can be idyllic — as long as you have somewhere to actually sit down and work. Before you move onto your next destination, scout out safe, legal overnight parking if you’re heading into a new area. If you’ve got an important deadline coming up and are afraid to rely on backcountry signal, head somewhere quiet and reliable for the day like a local library, coffee shop or park. You may want to invest in a quality folding table that you can use to work outside while the weather is nice; this will increase what kinds of areas you can work from. Remember to stay flexible: Things can change quickly while trying to work from the road, and obstacles like inclement weather, loss of signal or distracting noise can turn a day south, fast, if you don’t prepare beforehand.

6. Health & Hygiene Still Matter

As they say, all work and no play (or rest) makes remote work from the road a disaster. (Or, something to that effect.) In all seriousness though, working from the road isn’t just about having enough power, a dialed set-up or noise-cancelling tech to keep vibes peaceful and productive. One of the most important aspects of successful work from the road is keeping up a healthy routine: This means stretching, hydration and movement breaks, at the least. If you’re not exploring backcountry zones and getting in a workout that way, try joining a gym like Planet Fitness. (This is also a great place to get a shower in — score!)

On the digital side, use mental health apps, like Headspace, to stay centered. Join digital groups dedicated to a similar lifestyle as yours. Loneliness is no joke, so it’s important to establish a community of like-minded folks who just get you and what you’re experiencing. Even if you’re behind on a deadline and can’t find anywhere to set up and work, don’t skip meals or sleep — not only is it dangerous while operating a vehicle, but it’s terrible for your health, and will make you a less competent employee. Besides, you’re working from the road for a reason… stop and smell the roses whenever you can!

If you’re feeling excited to work from the road — whether you’re ready to go full on #vanlife or simply want to spend a day here and there listening to the songbirds swap office gossip — Overland Expos have exhibitors, showcases, demos, and loads of classes from people who are living the remote-work dream and are eager to walk you through all the tips from basic to advanced. Our next event is Overland Expo Mountain West, taking place from August 22-24 in Loveland, Colorado. Click the link below to learn more!

As a general rule, everyone yields to equestrians. Obviously, horses can spook, and while bikes and trucks can do unexpected things, they don’t literally have a mind of their own. So when you come upon horseback riders, be sure to stop, move to the side as much as possible, and give them plenty of room to pass by before starting on your way. Horse riders will often give verbal or hand cues as well to let you know if it’s safe to pass slowly or if they need additional space to maneuver around you safely.

Then amongst other trail users, cyclists yield to hikers (unless it makes more sense for the hiker to step aside) and everyone yields to equestrians. It’s much easier to step off the trail than it is to maneuver a horse or bike, but it’s important to ride with the awareness that the trail may be in use by others and a hiker will get more injured by a cyclist riding into them than a cyclist being somehow hiked over. Typically, uphill hikers yield to those hiking downhill. Let’s be honest, if you’re hiking up, you probably don’t mind a quick break. In all of the situations, communication is key, and try to keep an open dialogue with other backcountry travelers when possible.

For those not in a motorized vehicle, be aware of wildlife that can potentially attack and follow proper protocol based on your region. For those in motorized vehicles, be aware of your speed and wildlife that may jump into the road or trail. Remember we aren’t just sharing the trail with fellow humans, but everyone who lives, hunts, and recreates outside regardless of species.

If you’re traveling in a motorized vehicle in an area that includes hikers, cyclists, and horseback riders, be sure to give everyone plenty of space and slow down. Even if you aren’t on a road that’s popular with other forms of backcountry travel, you’ll likely pass trailheads, or multiuse trails may cross your route. Travel at speeds that will allow you to stop or maneuver appropriately, plus you don’t want to dust out those traveling the same route. And if you are lucky enough to have a cooler of cold beverages, stopping on a hot day to offer a hiker or cyclist a cold soda can not only make their day, but change their relationship with overlanders forever.

While much of this may seem like common sense, a reminder of best practices is always helpful to keep everyone safe. Trail etiquette requires everyone, and in motorized vehicles, it can be easy to forget we are all on the same journey to find natural beauty, peace of mind, and a feeling of adventure in exploring new areas or revisiting roads and trails that change through the passing of time.

Overlanding is one of many ways we enjoy the outdoors, and Overland Expos have hundreds of brands to help us do it. Whether you’re car camping in your Subaru for a weekend of hiking and kayaking, bouldering in a lifted Jeep, or riding your bike down the Colorado Trail, our exhibitors and educators have products and classes to help you do it. Learn knot tying and backcountry first aid, or check out the latest camp kitchen gear and shelters. Our next Overland Expo takes place in Loveland, Colorado ,from August 22-24. Click the link below to learn more about Overland Expo Mountain West!

Sure, fridges are great for extended trips, hot weather, and keeping vital medications cold. But for many, the cost might outweigh the actual need. That money could potentially be invested in other crucial upgrades, like your vehicle’s suspension or putting fuel in your vehicle for more travels.

Many experienced overlanders, including some of our own team, manage perfectly well without a mobile fridge. In this article, we’ll share effective strategies for keeping your food fresh and tasty on the road, no refrigeration required.

Eating Without a Fridge On The Road

One of the most common conversations anytime you stop for gas, pull up at a scenic overlook, or stay in an organized campground on an overland trip goes something like this: “Where do you sleep?”, “What’s your budget?”, and “What do you eat on the road?”

People are always intrigued by the food situation, often imagining a very basic diet of canned goods. They’re usually surprised to hear that my meals on the road – whether I’m using a 12V fridge or just a cooler – are pretty similar to what I eat at home: fresh salads, flavorful curries, pasta dishes, even a good steak.

For adventure motorcycle riders, the food puzzle is a bit different since panniers aren’t refrigerated (not yet, anyway!). They need clever solutions like coolers and dry provisions. But the good news is, you absolutely can eat well and enjoy a varied, nutritious diet, and even a chilled beverage occasionally, without relying solely on refrigeration.

Coolers

Let’s discuss the most obvious refrigerator workaround: the cooler. 

Cooler technology has come a long way since the ubiquitous green and white metal coolers I grew up with. I have memories of digging through melted ice and freezing cold water to the bottom of my dad’s Coleman for a can of Coke. 

Companies like Arizona’s Canyon Coolers now use pressure-injected foam insulation to ensure your cooler contents stay cold. They utilize a straight-wall design to avoid any waste of space, and most coolers can now accommodate catering trays to ensure that once your ice does start to melt, your head of lettuce or pre-prepared sandwich won’t be swimming at the bottom of the cooler. 

Unless you plan to be off the grid for more than a week, you may not even notice the absence of a refrigerator from your camp cooking setup. Moreover, a hard-sided cooler can be removed from your rig and double as a cutting board, a work surface, or even extra seating around the campfire. 

Here are a few coolers to consider for your travels.

Canyon Coolers Pro 45 Quart Cooler

Canyon Cooler’s Pro 45 Quart Cooler keeps food and drinks cold for 2 – 3 people on a multi-day trip. This mid-sized cooler features kayak-grade rotomolded plastic for durability and enough interior space for up to 29 canned beverages with ice. The Pro 45 also features a divider that can mount to the cooler to use as a small table.

MSRP: $319.95

Canyon Coolers Nomad 20

If you’re on a motorcycle, obviously, a 55-quart cooler isn’t what you’re looking for, but the Nomad 20 would attach nicely to your passenger seat or rear rack and retain ice for three to five days, depending on the climate you’re riding in.

MSRP: $199.95

Hydro Flask 12L Carry Out Soft Cooler

This small, soft-sided cooler from Hydro Flask is perfect to fit in your panniers on your motorcycle or use it as a drink cooler in the cab of your vehicle on long, hot drives. The Hydro Flask 12L Carry Out keeps food and drinks cold for 36 hours and remains compact when not in use.

MSRP: $69.95

Eating (Healthy) Without a Cooler On The Road

One of the things that is seldom spoken about is how often overlanders are in towns and cities with ample grocery shopping opportunities. Personally, I’m in a rural town or city every few days when I’m on an overland trip. When I have the opportunity, I like to pick up fresh fruits, veggies, and meat to take with me into the backcountry.

Even with frequent stops, when traveling in hot and humid conditions, a traveler without a refrigerator or large capacity cooler has to consider the best food options to take on the road, bearing in mind shelf life, pack-ability, and high nutritious content. That isn’t to say you can’t eat fresh and healthy while you’re on the road. You just have to consider how you’ll keep that food fresh.

Fruit

Of course, the standard options of canned or dried/dehydrated fruits are good fallback alternatives to fresh fruits – and can be rehydrated to include in recipes if needed. Think dried raisins, pineapple, cherries, and blueberries to help you get the necessary nutrients.

Fresh items like apples, raspberries, and oranges can last for a few days if you keep them out of direct sunlight and protected from being crushed. 

Vegetables

The same goes with vegetables, particularly those that are canned, and some fresh ones that fare better out of the refrigerator for longer than others. Lettuce, not so much. But red peppers, squash, carrots, onions, and garlic are all typically good to go for a few days on the trail. 

Seafood

I always keep canned tuna and salmon in my dry goods box, stashed away as a quick, tasty meal on the go. I also like smoked salmon or trout as an addition to a jar of Alfredo sauce (which, unopened, also doesn’t need to be refrigerated).

Dry Goods

Dry goods like rice and pasta can be augmented with freeze-dried veggies and can be stored neatly in your pannier or food storage bins for extended periods of time.

Meat

This is one of the trickier food groups to pack for a refrigerator-less journey and where the caveat at the beginning of the article comes into play. Most Americans are taught that all fresh meat products need to remain in a climate-controlled box, but we have many friends who ride motorcycles that routinely pack frozen steaks in their panniers and enjoy them a day or two into their journey.

Jerky and other cured meats, eggs that have not been refrigerated, and canned sausages are safer bets, for sure. But the longer you travel and the more open-air markets you walk through almost anywhere outside of the U.S., the wider variety of products you’ll see that you’re used to pulling out of a refrigerator in the U.S.

Dairy

Evaporated milk is a great way to lighten your morning coffee or add creaminess to oatmeal, but make sure you double bag it and ensure it endures minimal vibration wherever you store it: cleaning up an exploded bag of powdered milk is not a fun way to spend multiple days. One of my favorite hacks is the single-use creamers like you’d get in a restaurant. They’re shelf-stable and a welcome addition to a hot beverage.

Many travelers carry hard cheeses like parmesan for grating on pasta. As a rule, super-aged cheeses (over two years of aging) are great without refrigeration as long as you wrap them in butcher’s paper and seal it with tape while keeping them as cool as you can.

Dehydrated Meals

Prepackaged, dehydrated meals from the likes of Good To-Go and Mountain House are great to have on hand, especially for those evenings when you arrive at camp late and just want a fast, hearty meal. Or for the days when you’ve stretched the limit of the fresh foods you’ve brought along with you just a bit too far.

Good To-Go Thai Curry

This spicy yellow curry is perfect to keep on hand in your dry goods storage box or in a pannier for a quick meal on the go. All you need to do is add boiling water, and you have a full meal in no time.

MSRP: $10.75 per serving

Peak Refuel Breakfast Skillet

Peak Refuel’s Breakfast Skillet is a meal made for those who are ready to take on a challenge. With 39 grams of protein, you’ll be giving your body what it needs to get going. Just add two cups of water to this blend of whole eggs, peppers, and 100% real sausage for a breakfast made for thrill-seekers.

MSRP: $14.99

By implementing some of these simple solutions, you can easily eat well on the road without ever needing a fridge!

If you find yourself fretting over the “what ifs” but don’t want to be caught unprepared, then take a look at our suggested categories and some items we count on to help get to the backcountry and, just as importantly, get back home.

Where are you going?

You can’t possibly prepare for every contingency, but you still need to be prepared. Your packing list should match your route and your destination. Weather, proximity to resupply opportunities, and the availability of communications all play a factor in how you pack for your overlanding trip.

Water

Everyone knows we need water to live, but carrying enough for drinking, cooking, and cleaning up can be a challenge, especially on longer trips. If the area along your route provides opportunities to refill from trusted sources or even filter wild water, you can save lots of weight and space. Just be sure that you’re getting it from a trusted source and that you have the option to filter the water if there’s any doubt that it’s safe to drink.

The LiveSaver Jerrycan is a great option for carrying 18.5 liters of water, and you also have the ability to filter 20,000 gallons by filling the jerrycan and using the integrated hand pump to pull the water through the filter element.

Or you can use the tried and true Scepter water cans for storage. They fit in standard Jerry Can holders, and the vented lid makes pouring from them significantly easier than in other large containers.

If you’re looking for a packable filter that can guarantee clean water, whether you’re camping out of your rig or heading out on a day hike, you should take a look at GRAYL’s line of water purifiers. That’s right; purifiers are not just filters. GRAYL Geopress takes care of bacteria, viruses, heavy metals, and other chemicals, so you can drink from some dubious sources without worry. The whole process takes less than a minute, and they’re a great way to have access to clean drinking water no matter where you roam.

Fuel

Fuel gets you out there and gets you back. Sometimes, the area and your rig will dictate how much fuel you need to bring along. But, even if you don’t expect to need it, it’s never a bad idea in case you have to reroute or get delayed by rough terrain. Alternatively, you may run into someone else who miscalculated their fuel situation and needs a helping hand.

A classic jerry can like this one from Wavian is still an excellent option for carrying fuel. Many off-road bumpers include mounts for this type of container. With a little bit of care, they’ll last for years.

You can also consider something from the RotoPAX line. The flat orientation of these fuel containers allows them to be mounted and stored in various options. When considering fuel storage options, always check that they’re DOT-approved, and regularly inspect failure points such as gaskets and any damaged areas.

Navigation Equipment

Regardless of where you venture, you should always have primary and backup navigation tools. GPS options range from applications on smartphones and tablets to dedicated devices. It’s important to remember that cell service is never guaranteed, so maps stored offline are a necessity. It’s a good idea to also have backup navigation.

There are several mobile applications that give you the ability to plan routes, track a trip, mark waypoints, and store maps offline. Don’t wait until you’re on the trail to become familiar with the user interface, and again, download your maps locally. We’re fans of Gaia GPS and OnX Offroad for trip planning and navigation in the backcountry.

A dedicated GPS unit is a great option for on and off-road navigation. The Garmin Overlander made a big impact in the market, and now they have several off-road-focused models.

While electronic navigation options offer a certain level of convenience, good old paper maps never have dead batteries and take up relatively little room. Plus, there’s a certain sense of nostalgia associated with tracing your finger over the page as you plan a trip. DeLorme prints excellent atlases for each state, and they’re perfect for getting a trip together as you flip from page to page.

Recovery Gear

You probably don’t plan on being stuck, but recovery gear is a must-have. If you’re out in the backcountry with your rig enough, you’ll either need to recover your own vehicle or you’ll need to help someone else. While it’s important to train with all of your overlanding gear, it is especially true of recovery equipment. 

At a minimum, take some hand tools and recovery boards when you hit the trail. This combo can get you out of a lot of tight spots as long as you’re willing to invest some time and sweat equity. 

In recent years, the traction board market has exploded. These now-ubiquitous tools have rightfully earned their place in the overlanding packing list. While there are some cheap options out there, we definitely suggest sticking with a thoroughly tested and dependable option.

A step up from the hand tool and recovery board combo is the mighty winch. You’ll need to make sure your winch is rated to an adequate weight that matches not only your vehicle but also the added weight of your equipment and accessories. The capability of the winch is exponentially increased when combined with a well-stocked accessory kit.

Air Tools

The ability to air up a tire relates to vehicle recovery in more than one way. Not only will an air compressor get you back on the road after a puncture is plugged, but it opens up some easy opportunities to improve your vehicle’s trail capabilities. 

When you air down your tire, it increases the contact patch, aka the footprint, of your tire. Airing down also makes traveling over rough terrain a bit more comfortable. However, when you’re ready to get back on the road, you’ll need to air up to highway pressure. The air compressor is the key to this balancing act. No matter if you go for one that’s built into your rig or mobile model, be sure you have a way to air up and down.

First Aid

We’re firm believers that every vehicle should include first aid and emergency equipment, even if you don’t plan to stray from the tarmac. Your first aid kit should be outfitted to meet the emergency situations you’re most likely to encounter and your training. Are you heading to the desert? Pack more electrolyte packets and sunscreen. Does your adventure take place during prime time for insects? Then, be sure you don’t skimp on repellant and after-bite care. If someone in your group has specific medical needs, make sure your kit has what they might need. At the same time, don’t take a bunch of medical gear that is outside your skill level. Medical training that is geared towards first aid and stabilization of more severe conditions is one of the best investments you can make, and knowledge weighs nothing. 

No matter if you’re looking to put together a fully customized kit or if you’d prefer a premade kit, be sure it’s from reputable sources. Most of our kits are outfitted with Adventure Medical, MyMedic, and North American Rescue equipment and supplies.

Sleep

Obviously, you’ll need to pack adequate shelter (here are our suggestions for the Best Overlanding Tents), but don’t skimp on the insulation layers you’ll use inside of your tent. You have a few options when deciding what will keep you cozy after the fire has died down. 

Down is unbeatable for warmth-to-weight ratio, and there are some great synthetic options out there as well. Depending on where you travel and how you prefer to sleep, you can take a look at quilts for a more versatile insulation option or go for a sleeping bag for colder climates.

Additionally, a wool blanket will keep you warm even in nasty conditions, and outside of your sleeping equipment, it makes a great addition to a vehicle winter emergency kit.

Kitchen

Okay, this is an area where overlanders vary wildly on what they deem essential. The best advice is to start with the basics and then decide how in-depth you want to get with your camp cooking gear. 

At the very least, you’ll need a stove. While the notion of cooking everything over a fire can be romantic, it’s not necessarily practical, or even legal, in every circumstance. 

One of the most compact options for camp cooking is the Jetboil line of stoves. While sizes vary, these stoves can boil water and include integrated pots, and the larger models have some simmering capability. This style of stove runs almost exclusively on isobutane canisters. 

The next step up would be a two-burner stove. This gives you significantly more culinary flexibility, and you can even add a griddle top or other accessories if you want to get creative with your camp cooking.

Outside of your stove, you’ll need some cooking accessories. This is a great opportunity to start small and build from there. If you plan accordingly, you only need a few pots and pans. Kits that pack together save space and simplify organization.

Fridge vs. cooler

In order to go further, you need to stay out longer, and in nearly every instance, that means less access to the amenities of the modern world. While a quality cooler works great for weekend trips, replenishing ice can become a challenge if you’re in the backcountry for more than a few days. 

While fridges require more upfront work in terms of a power supply, they provide an extremely easy way to keep your food cold after that initial set-up. You can choose the fridge that matches your travel style in terms of capacity, single versus dual-zone, and there is a wide range of models available in terms of budget. 

On the other hand, coolers are cheaper than fridges; they are easily removed from your rig when not in use, and there’s obviously no need to worry about power. If your trips aren’t longer than the lifespan of the ice, or you don’t mind basing your route around opportunities to purchase ice, then a cooler might be the right equipment for you.

Storage

Lastly, storage for all of your gear may be the most crucial aspect of what you bring overlanding. How’s that? Well, if you can’t find what you need and everything is piled together, you won’t have a very good time. On a more serious note, in an emergency, a lack of organization can be a major factor, so staying organized is imperative.

Drawers for wagons, SUVs, and trucks are a common storage solution. They’re great for keeping your rig loaded and ready to go. Plus, it’s a great way to utilize every cubby and inch of space in your vehicle.

Hard cases are another great option for keeping everything sorted. We prefer hard cases that are easy to stack and secure so that you don’t have to worry about them bouncing around when the track gets tough. If they’re waterproof and dustproof, that’s even better. Then, you can carry them outside of the passenger area of your vehicle without worrying about ruining your cargo. 

Overall, let your training and experience shape what you bring on your overlanding trip. While some items fall firmly in the better-to-have category, there are some that definitely are wiser to carry lest you desperately need them. Experiment with what works for you.

In the world of overlanding, there’s room for those who enjoy a dehydrated backpacking meal at dinner just as much as there’s room for the adventurer who brings a literal truckload of gear. As long as you’re traveling safely and responsibly through the backcountry, in my opinion, you’re doing it right.

The term “overlanding” can mean something different for everyone. For some, overlanding is a quick trip to the mountains in an organized campsite, for others it could mean long trips consisting of highway driving followed by challenging off-highway terrain to a remote place. For still others, it means long-term traveling in a vehicle or motorcycle that could span multiple countries or continents.

Wherever you fall on the overlanding spectrum, getting started is relatively simple. Let’s discuss some ways to prepare yourself, your vehicle, and your finances for your journey ahead.

Get Outfitted

Choosing a rig for your overland adventures can be a time consuming process, but just remember that you can simply use the vehicle you have in your driveway already. It doesn’t have to be built out to go enjoy a nice cruise down a graded forest service road to a campsite. Just throw your camping gear into your vehicle of choice and hit the road.

If you’re looking for a primer on choosing an overland rig of your own, I highly recommend our articles, “What is an Overlanding Vehicle?” or “The Best Vehicle for Overlanding” Pick a rig that works for you and the style of travel you do (or want to do.) Don’t be swayed by YouTube content creators or flashy Instagram posts. Your vehicle must be useful for YOU.

Once you pick a vehicle, you’ll need a few things to outfiit it. Remember that less is usually more when you first start overlanding. There’s no need to go all-in for your first trip. Starting out simple is an easy way to focus on the experience. Building your kit slowly, selectively, and by utilizing crowdsourcing to find out which products others with your rig or similar travel plans are happy camping with is a great strategy. A great spot to learn more is the DIY and Showcase Area at an Overland Expo event near you. There you’ll see real vehicles driven by real people and you’ll get to examine their rig and ask them questions about their gear choices. This is invaluable!

Don’t go overboard with gear for your first trip. Using the less is more theory, bring things you know you’ll need, like sleeping gear, cooking gear, shelter, and a few other items. Build your kit slowly and methodically. Remove things you never use and add things you forgot and eventually you’ll have the perfect kit for your style of travel. Don’t forget the bourbon or the coffee for the next morning!

Get Trained

Most of us learned to drive in our mid-teens. By the time we set off for our overland travels, our skills may be a bit rusty. A defensive driver course or Motorcycle Safety Foundation course to refresh basic skills are highly advisable.

Outside of some basics, you should look at getting training that’s applicable to your chosen vehicle. Just because you plan to stick to the easy routes doesn’t mean you should forego recovery gear and, more importantly, knowing how to use it. Learn first aid skills for when you’re far off grid and can’t get to medical help quickly. Take the time to learn wilderness survival skills including fire-making, foraging, and water purification. Vehicle maintenance and trail repair are important skills to have in your repertoire as well.

The list can be daunting, but there is one place to get all of the training and learn all of the skills you need to feel safe and confident taking your vehicle into the backcountry…Overland Expo! Either join us at any of our events to get a taste of our education area and learn the skills you need, or go the extra step to join us at Overland Expo Pacific Northwest and learn from our Overland Expo Training Team.

Where to Go

What to take is only half of the battle. For the beginner overlander, deciding where to venture out can be very intimidating. You can still have some adventure but focus on enjoying your trip. There will be plenty of time for challenging trails and arduous journeys in the future. 

For inspiration, find local overlanding focused social media groups, look for a nearest National Forest, or check out our primers on Where to Go Overlanding and How to Find Overland Trails. 

Get Out There

Your first trip can be intimidating, but it’s a great opportunity to perform a shake-down run. Plan a weekend, or better yet, a week-long trip with the sole purpose of getting it out and testing your rig and equipment. 

That sleeping pad may have rave reviews but might not work for you, or the navigation application you’re using might have a steep learning curve. Discovering these things when you’re relatively close to home and your time commitment isn’t that great is better than finding out at the beginning of a long trip.

Finances

If your end goal is long-term travel, you’ll need to make sure you can support yourself on the journey. Budgeting for an overland journey can be daunting, but it doesn’t have to be. Identify overlanders whose blogs you enjoy and talk to them about how they handle their budget. Of course, everyone will be different. In order to successfully plan your costs, you will need to consider how you will be happy living on the road.

Are you perfectly comfortable sleeping in a tent? Or will you need to factor hotel costs into your budget? Do you plan to eat every meal in a restaurant? Or cook between one and three meals a day yourself? 

For a while, it was rare that someone could work from the road, but now remote work is relatively common. If you aren’t currently in a position where that’s possible, you can look to make career changes that will allow you to hit the road long-term when you’re ready to take that step. 

If you still have more questions about financing long-term overland journeys, you should definitely visit an Overland Expo. At nearly every one of our events, you’ll have access to round table discussions and sessions that explore this very topic. 

Get Inspired

I’m not talking about listening to stories about the most beautiful waterfalls people have seen or the most amazing meals they’ve enjoyed in a far-flung country. I’m talking about reading true travelogues or watching vlogs by travelers who are honest about the hard days. 

While Instagram accounts of overland travelers can make it appear like a perpetual vacation, that is most certainly not the case. There’s always the potential for something to wrong on the trip. No matter if it’s a weekend trip on local forest roads or a trip through another country, the unexpected can, and will, happen. However, this is all part of the experience. It’s why we make sure we’re prepared with both proper equipment and training. Plus, when things go a little wrong, you usually come out on the other side with some great stories. 

Don’t Over-Plan

Planning paralysis is a real thing. Over-plan, and you might never leave. Planning for an overland trip can be unnerving, especially if it’s a long-term/long-distance one. So unnerving, in fact, some people never make it past planning.

Having a general idea of where you want to go and what you want to do is important. Knowing basic information about your vehicle is essential. Know location-specific information like what vaccinations will be necessary along your route and what paperwork/fees border crossings will require. Outside of those few things, remain flexible. This is exactly where “it’s about the journey, not the destination,” comes from. 

Now, get your rig loaded with a bit of gear, pick a spot on the map, and go. 

If this post has gotten you excited and you can’t wait to meet other overlanders in person, learn from the pros and seasoned amateurs, and get fantastic deals on the newest gear, come to our next event! We will be in Flagstaff, Arizona, May 16-18 for our largest event of the year, Overland Expo West. We’d love to see you there!

Knowing how much water to bring on a trip isn’t always easy — especially if you’re new to the world of overlanding. I’ve been exploring the backcountry by vehicle for more than two decades, and in that time, I’ve adopted a pretty good system for exactly how much water to bring for my journeys, as well as tools to make toting large quantities of water on the trail easier. I’ll share some of those with you below.

Water is Life

Humans and animals can go without food for about three weeks but would only last around three to four days without water. On average, and in perfect conditions, the typical person drinks about two liters of water per day, though that can change dramatically with the amount of exercise you get or the relative outdoor temperature. Obviously, you’ll drink more water the hotter it gets or as you increase your activity level.

The general rule for overland travel is one gallon of water per person per day. This includes water for drinking, cooking, cleaning, and personal hygiene. So, for a single person, a three-day trip into the backcountry requires a minimum of three gallons of water.

And, no, beer and bourbon don’t count toward your water requirement — as much as you’d like them to. Alcohol dehydrates, so you will actually require more water each day.

Where Do You Store All of This Water?

Let’s not mice words. Water is heavy. One U.S. liquid gallon of fresh water weighs roughly 8.34 pounds or 3.785 kilograms at room temperature. Given that measurement, we can extrapolate that a full 20-liter/ five-gallon jerry can (that weighs 4.3-pounds empty) plus 44.3-pounds of water is around 48.6-pounds total. It is easy to see that carrying a lot of water with you can get pretty heavy, although not carrying water with you is a recipe for disaster. So, you be the judge.

Storage can be as simple as a Scepter Jerry Can, Rotopax, or a larger water tank like Front Runner Outfitters Slanted Water Tank. We’ll take a look at these options below:

Scepter Jerry Can

The Scepter Jerry Can is built to military specs and used widely around the world by the military and NATO. These five-gallon food-grade, low-density polyethylene (LDPE) and high-density polyethylene (HDPE) construction jerry cans are BPA-free and will not add taste, odor, or any chemicals to the water. The Scepter Jerry Can features a single carrying handle and a screw-top cap that locks securely in the closed position. The small spout makes it easy to fill water bottles, and the breather hole with its own cap provides great airflow for easy pouring. I’ve used two of these mounted on a rack on my Land Cruiser for ten + years, and they haven’t let me down yet.

MSRP: $72.95

RotoPAX Water Cans

RotoPAX Water Cans are a popular choice for overland travel as they are durable, lightweight, and don’t leak. These two-gallon roto-molded water cans have thicker walls and stronger construction to make them leak-proof – along with a sure seal gasket to guarantee your spout won’t leak or vibrate loose. RotoPAX mounting kits are sold separately, but this solution provides a lot of options for placement in or on your vehicle.

 MSRP: Varies by Size – $53.95 – $64.95

 Front Runner Outfitters Slanted Water Tank

If you’re looking for a semi-permanent water tank, it is hard to pass up the Front Runner Outfitters Slanted Water Tank. This tank holds 50 liters or 13.2 gallons of water and includes two channels for mounting straps to make sure the tank stays where you want it. This tank is made from BPA-free polyethylene and includes plastic fittings that allow you to connect a hose for easy access. The slanted design fits perfectly behind the back seats in most SUVs.

MSRP: $229.00

Dometic Go Water Hydration Jug

Dometic’s Hydration Water Jug 11 l lets you easily store and pour the water you need. Keep it in your vehicle or at your campsite for a convenient, safe water supply of 11 liters of fresh water for your campsite. There are multiple dispensing options built in, including two openings for easy filling and cleaning. Pair it with the Dometic Go Hydration Water Faucet for powered dispensing of your water.

MSRP: $69.99

What if you don’t want to carry water with you?

If you’re already pushing gross vehicle weight, you might not want to carry a bunch of heavy water with you. In this case, you should have a way to treat water while you’re out on the trail. 

Let me be clear that I don’t recommend this option unless you are absolutely certain that you have access to a water source nearby. When I’m traveling, I can never count on being near a water source at any given time, but you may have a different experience than me.

The options below are typically used in conjunction with the products I outlined above, so you have a treatment and a storage solution.

MSR Guardian Gravity Water Purifier

The MSR Guardian Gravity Water Purifier is a 10-Liter soft-sided water reservoir that is easy to fill and removes bacteria, sediment, viruses, and protozoa through gravity action. The Guardian Gravity Water Purifier features a quick-release valve with easy shutoff. It’s great for filtering water in camp while you handle other chores.

MSRP: $299.95

Katadyn BeFree AC 1.0L Microfilter

Katadyn’s BeFree AC 1L Microfilter is small enough to take on nearly any adventure and weighs in at just 2.2 ounces, so your vehicle weight stays low. Incredibly stowable, this water filter is quick to deploy. Simply unscrew the lid, fill it up, and the hollow fiber filter filters out bacteria, cysts, and sediment. I just wish I had one of these when I rode through India in 2007, but that’s a story for another time.

MSRP: $49.95

Lifesaver Jerry Can

The Lifesaver Jerrycan 20000UF is a great hybrid treatment/ storage solution. Its carbon filter removes viruses, bacteria, cysts, parasites, chlorine, taste, and odor out of 20,000 liters worth of water. The Jerrycan itself can hold 18.5 liters of water. The replaceable filter exceeds NSF P248 compliance standards, and the container is BPA- and BPS-free.

MSRP: $299.95

Whichever route you end up going, the most important thing to remember is that your solution needs to be easy to use. Knowing before you leave for your trip that you have clean water – or at least access to water that you can treat – is vitally important. Thinking about these things before you go is much better than winging it and not having enough water.

I probably don’t need to tell you that staying dry and warm is the name of the game when it comes to overlanding during winter. As someone who overlands and camps year-round, I’ve come to rely on a handful of techniques (and gear) to ensure that I remain comfortable during my winter explorations. By no means should my recommendations be taken as the final word on the subject of winter overlanding, though. Rather take my lessons and preferences as recommendations and jumping-off points for your own experiences.

Let’s break down some of the best ways I’ve found to stay warm while overlanding during winter.

Warm Clothing

Dressing for hanging around a campsite is a bit different from dressing for skiing or another aerobic activity. That’s because when you’re at camp, you’re mostly sedentary — that is after you’ve unpacked your rig and gathered and chopped your firewood. The key is LAYERS. Overdoing it with layers is never a bad thing. If you get too hot, it’s easy to peel a layer off. You’ll be far happier losing a layer because you’re too warm than wishing you had one or two more warm pieces of clothing.

I start with a baselayer like merino wool pants from Smartwool and long sleeve shirt from Icebreaker, add in some wool socks from Darn Tough. Next up is your mid-weight layer. I use a heavier half-zip or hooded merino wool top and all-weather pants like the KUHL Klash Durable Water Repellant Pants. I’ll add a down jacket or waterproof and windproof shell if the weather is scheduled to take a turn. Don’t forget your wool beanie and waterproof gloves too.

Campfire

This shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone. Having a fire is your best bet to not just “making it through” a winter overland trip but to actually enjoying your time outdoors in the winter. And there is a lot to enjoy about a crackling fire to warm your bones at camp. Despite the challenges it poses, winter overlanding is amazing because of the solitude. There are a fraction of the number of overlanders out during the winter months than there are during summer. That means you’ll have the best trails and campsites mostly to yourself.

Also, cold, wet weather means there are no restrictions on fire. So you can make a roaring fire every night at camp without much worry of starting a wildfire. That said, if there’s not an established fire ring at your campsite and the ground is too frozen to dig in, you may want to bring a packable, portable fire pit like this one from Snow Peak.

Don’t want to worry about bringing or finding your own firewood? Propane fire pits are a fantastic way to get the ambiance and warmth of a campfire without the need to burn wood. Just hook your fire pit up to any propane tank and enjoy hours of heat and the orange glow of a campfire that is easily packable – check out this TemboTusk Fire Pit for instance.

Heaters

Bringing your fire pit into your tent isn’t advisable, so you may want to find a way to create more heat inside your tent or off-road trailer than your body heat trapped inside a zero-degree sleeping bag. In that case, you’ll want to look at a gas-powered heater.

Please understand that unsafe use of a gas-powered heater can be dangerous or downright deadly as there is a greater risk of fire and/or carbon monoxide poisoning. Heaters can make winter camping great, but if you’re not diligent, they can be a nightmare in the making. So, please use abundant caution if you decide to use an in-tent, gas-powered heater.

I’ve had pretty good luck with the Mr. Heater Buddy as well as the Mr. Heater Little Buddy Heater.

I’ve used the larger propane-powered Buddy around camp (specifically at my feet while I’m cooking dinner) and in my rooftop tent before bed. I wouldn’t leave the Buddy Heater going in my rooftop tent because I worry about burning my sleeping bag or blankets. The Buddy is powerful enough to heat the tent before I crawl into bed.

On particularly cold nights, I’ve used the Mr. Heater Little Buddy overnight in my rooftop tent. Because it’s much smaller, it puts off a lot less heat than the larger Buddy heater. The only issue with the Little Buddy is that it only lasts six hours. So, you might need to change out the propane bottle in the wee hours of the morning to stay warm.

Hearty Meals

Let’s say you get to camp late and in the dark, which isn’t difficult in the winter because the sun goes down at 4:30 p.m., and you need a hot, hearty meal to sustain you through the night. I recommend a high-calorie freeze-dried meal, like those from PEAK REFUEL.

Designed for backpackers, these meals pack 40 grams of protein per pouch and only require a bit of boiling water to prepare. If you chow down on the Three Bean Chili Mac, you may be providing your own heat in your sleeping bag – if you know what I mean.

Keep Moving

If clothing, heaters, and food don’t warm you up, I recommend you keep moving to stay warm. It’s the oldest method for ensuring your core temperature stays up and your extremities stay flush, too. Cut firewood. Haul gear around. Walk the dog. Whatever you can come up with, generating your own heat is a great way to stay toasty.

If all else fails, get inside your truck and fire it up. But don’t make the mistake of wearing all your warm gear inside your warm truck. Your body will acclimate to the gear, and then when you get back out of your truck in your gear, you’ll be extra cold. Strip off your layers if you’re going to warm up in your truck. You’ll thank me later.

Overlanding is often misinterpreted as just car camping, four-wheeling, or #vanlife. While it can encompass those things, at its heart, overlanding is about self-sufficient vehicle travel where the adventure itself is the destination. Said vehicle could be a truck, SUV, wagon, motorcycle, bicycle, or expedition vehicle. Regardless of what you might be piloting, an overland traveler should be prepared to manage their own needs through equipment and skill.

At its core, overlanding embodies the spirit of exploration. Whether you’re steering your truck down a dusty two-track in the Andes or rocketing down a dirt road in the Southwest on an adventure motorcycle, it’s about seeking out the less traveled roads and fully immersing yourself in new environments and cultures. No matter where your journey takes you, there are sure to be aspects of the day-to-day life of the locals that we can learn from. Local cuisine, music, history, and more can enrich a trip, and slowing down and taking the time to learn about these cultural aspects can truly enrich a trip. Sure, you’ll visit remote campsites and face off-road challenges, but every twist and turn along the way becomes an opportunity for personal reflection and growth.

The Origin of Overlanding

The term “overlanding” originated in Australia, referring to the long-distance movement of livestock. Pioneers like Alfred Canning and Len Beadell paved the way for modern overland travel, creating routes that still inspire adventurers today.

As motorized travel grew, early explorers embarked on incredible journeys in basic vehicles. Max Reisch’s ride from Vienna to Mumbai and Ralph Bagnold’s trek across the Libyan Desert showcased the pioneering spirit that defines overlanding.

Today, overlanding combines exploration with recreation. The rise of adventure tourism and durable vehicles, like the Toyota Land Cruiser, has made this form of travel more accessible.

Willys-Overland staged publicity event, driving up and down the U.S. Capitol Steps in February 1941. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

A pre-Instagram 1930s Overland Honeymoon. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

Camels and a 1981 BMW R80 G/S in Abu Dhabi. Photo: Ebling Klaus, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Your Rig is Your Key to Adventure

We’ve already said that an overland journey can take place in nearly countless vehicles, but regardless of what you choose as your trusted steed, it should be durable and capable. You can tackle the durability side of things from a couple of angles. For starters, you should choose a platform that’s known for reliability, but don’t take that as a guarantee that you can cross a continent with zero problems.

Overland vehicles are marked by their ability to withstand the rigors of the road with capabilities that stand the test of time. Whether you favor Land Rovers or motorcycles, the right vehicle is essential. The classic overland rigs, such as the Willys Jeep (the first mass-produced civilian four-wheel drive vehicle) and the BMW R 80 G/S (the motorcycle that marked the start of modern adventure riding), laid the foundation for the Wranglers and GSs of today. Now, we have a range of models to pick from many trusted vehicle manufacturers, so if you’re on the market, examine your needs, the pros, and cons of each, and maybe talk to some experienced travelers before diving into a new rig.

On the other hand, you can increase the durability and reliability of your rig by adding a few crucial upgrades. A smooth ride doesn’t just save your back; it’s a great deterrent to wear and tear on your rig and gear, so invest in quality tires and suspension upgrades. From there, you can add bumpers, skids, and other trail armor. These items come with a weight penalty, but they can keep a slight mistake from becoming a costly and possibly trip-ending error. We’ll revisit upgrades momentarily, but regardless of where you’re headed, make sure you take a vehicle that you can rely on to get you back.

Get the Gear

If you’re in the wilderness long enough you’ll need to repair a flat, swap out consumable parts, and make some repairs. You should be familiar with how to complete these tasks, have the tools that you need on hand, and carrying a few spare parts isn’t a bad idea.

This sense of self-reliance is integral to overlanding. Beyond these possible trail-side repairs, you need to be ready to take care of your basic needs in whatever level of wilderness you’re exploring. An overnighter in the National Forest might not require the same level of planning and packing as a month-long trip, but you still have to be ready to take care of yourself.

The idea of self-reliance should be what guides your gear selection. First, outfit your vehicle with what you need to meet your basic needs for food, water, and shelter, and then add the tools and equipment needed to address repairs and other emergency situations. Lastly, think of the things that will increase your comfort, but don’t go too wild. Be cognizant of your vehicle’s gross vehicle weight rating, and even if you’re under that, pay attention to how well things are organized. If all of your gear is heaped on top of everything else, it’s incredibly difficult to find what you need in a hurry. Plus, you’ll have a better experience if your loadout is curated to meet your needs versus the proverbial kitchen sink strategy.

With that in mind, these categories are a good starting point and road map for upgrading your vehicle.

Tires, Wheels, and Suspension: The connection between your vehicle and the ground beneath you will make or break your overland journey. Investing in quality tires is one of the best and most basic things you can do to prepare any vehicle for overlanding. For more serious off-road ventures or carrying capacity, you may consider upgrading your suspension and wheels if heading deep into the hinterland happens on a regular basis.  

Bumpers, Armor, and Recovery Gear: Your choice of vehicle protection should be determined by the level of challenge you choose to tackle. Or, perhaps conversely, the level of challenge should be determined by the armor on your rig. Additionally, having a basic recovery kit for getting yourself out of sticky situations is important, but arming yourself with the knowledge to use it is absolutely essential.

Navigation and Communications: Figuring out where to go is one of the best parts of overlanding, and being in touch when you need it most is crucial for safety. We’re going off the beaten path here, so having navigation and communication systems for finding your way in uncharted terrain is very useful, even if it’s as simple as an updated atlas and a knowledge of cell coverage where you’re traveling. 

Lighting and Power: Illuminating your journey and generating your own power give you the ability to travel further afield and for longer periods of time. At the very least, keep a headlamp for your evening camp chores or a trip to the privy. You may also consider adding auxiliary lights, solar, or a generator for longer-term traveling.

Racks, Storage, and Trailers: Remember that overlanding is not car camping, and the goal here is extended travel. That means you’ll need to store and transport your gear for the long haul. Whether you invest in some upgraded milk crates, add a bed storage system to your truck, or go all in pulling a capable trailer, having a system to safely travel with cargo is key.

Tents and Awnings: Being out on the range truly starts to feel like home when you get a good night’s sleep and have shelter from the storm. Whether you’re tenting on the ground and stretching out a shade tarp or going full tilt with a rooftop tent and 180-degree awning, being well-rested and protected from the elements keeps you fueled for the journey ahead.

Kitchen Gear: Speaking of keeping fueled, who doesn’t love cooking and eating outdoors? Whether your camp kitchen is a Coleman stove on the tailgate or a fully-equipped slide-out system, food always tastes better when you’re dining under the stars. Also, don’t forget to factor in your water storage, as staying hydrated while overlanding requires more water than you might realize.

Experience and Knowledge Weigh Nothing

It’s incredibly easy to think that overlanding is all about the gear, but that’s not necessarily the truth. Sure, you need some things to be appropriately prepared, and some comfort items are absolutely fine, but what you should really be collecting is experience. You’ll be amazed at how much you learn about your rig and your travel experience with some time behind the wheel. From how your vehicle responds in particular situations to what you really need and what you really don’t.

Also, we can’t overstate the value of training from a professional in terms of recovery gear and best practices. While you might think that you can “figure it out on your own” or that “I’ve seen this one on YouTube,” you could seriously damage your rig, yourself, and/or your travel companions if you don’t minimize the inherent risk in recovery and technical driving situations.

Plus, the overlanding community includes thousands of experienced travelers from every niche imaginable. Be sure to tap into their expertise online and at events where you can learn from the best.

Every Journey Starts with a Single Step

You don’t need to quit your job or embark on a decade-long journey to embrace overlanding. Set your sights on local public lands, equip yourself with practical skills, and stretch your travel limits to genuinely explore the unknown.

Ultimately, overlanding is about the experience and the environment around you. Don’t let a lack of fancy gear hold you back. While a grand global adventure may not be feasible now, countless destinations within a day’s drive are available. You can always work your way up to grander routes and far-flung destinations.

Remember, overlanding is all about the journey itself—every great adventure begins with that first step.

Overlanding is an exciting way to explore the great outdoors, traveling across vast landscapes while relying on your vehicle to take you to remote and breathtaking locations. However, venturing into rugged terrain means that vehicle recovery is an essential skill to have in your toolkit. Whether a beginner or a seasoned traveler, understanding the basics of vehicle recovery can be the difference between a minor hiccup and a serious obstacle during your overland journey.

Keep reading to learn key fundamentals of overland vehicle recovery, including essential equipment, techniques, and best practices for safe and efficient recovery.

Why Vehicle Recovery Is Important

When driving off-road or on remote trails, getting stuck is almost inevitable at some point. Mud, sand, snow, rocks, or steep inclines can quickly become impassable. A recovery situation can arise when you least expect it, whether it’s due to traction loss, mechanical failure, or obstacles. Knowing how to recover your vehicle safely can prevent damage to your rig, ensure your safety, and minimize time spent in vulnerable conditions.

Efficient vehicle recovery skills and equipment are not only valuable for pushing the limits of your vehicle on difficult tracks but also when something goes wrong or breaks on easier trails or even on rough roads that are far away from help. A malfunction or failure within the four-wheel drive system of your vehicle in a remote place can make a moderate trail very difficult to navigate, and having the resources and knowledge to get you and your vehicle out of trouble is priceless.  

Essential Vehicle Recovery Gear

Before embarking on any overlanding or off-road trip, having the right recovery gear is critical. Here’s a rundown of the must-have items to keep in your recovery kit:

Recovery Straps

Recovery straps (also called tow straps or kinetic recovery ropes) are designed to stretch and store energy, helping to pull a stuck vehicle free with minimal shock load. Ensure you select a strap rated for your vehicle’s weight, typically with a breaking strength two to three times your vehicle’s gross weight.

For example, if your vehicle has a curb weight of 5,000 lbs (2,267kg), your recovery strap should have a minimum breaking strength of 12,500 lbs (5,443 kg) or more. 

D-Shackles or Soft Shackles

Shackles provide secure attachment points for your recovery straps. D-shackles (metal) and soft shackles (synthetic) both have their advantages, but soft shackles are lighter, less prone to damage, and safer to use if something goes wrong during recovery. As with anything braided, proper maintenance and inspection are key to using synthetic shackles. 

Recovery Boards (Traction Mats)

Recovery boards are one of the most straightforward tools for gaining traction in loose or soft terrain such as mud, snow, or sand. By placing them under your tires, you can quickly regain traction and drive out of a stuck position. Recovery boards come in a variety of lengths, materials, and weight ratings. Consider the type of terrain that you will experience and purchase the best recovery board for your needs. 

MaxTrax is almost synonymous with the term recovery boards, and with good reason. For years, adventurers around the world have used them to increase their traction and confidence on overland journies, and that’s why we chose them as the recovery boards on the Ultimate Overland Build. Oftentimes, you can save a lot of time and effort by throwing some MaxTrax down when you hit a section of trail with loose or slick surfaces.

Gloves and Protective Gear

Safety is paramount during any recovery operation. It is smart to take your time while setting up recovery and think through the forces involved, the angles at which each vehicle is being pulled, and the ratings of the gear that you are using.  When handling cables and equipment, thick gloves protect your hands from cuts, burns, or injuries. Also, eye protection and sturdy boots are advisable when working in rough terrain.

Winch

A winch can be a game-changer for difficult recoveries, particularly when traveling solo. A winch uses a motor-driven cable to pull your vehicle out of a stuck situation. Paired with a tree saver strap (to protect trees during winch use), a winch can help recover a vehicle in complex scenarios like steep inclines or deep mud.

If a winch is a device you anticipate needing often in your travels, consider spending a little more cash for a winch with a synthetic line. Synthetic line is lighter, safer, and just as strong as steel cable when maintained properly. 

The 2024 Ultimate Overland Build is outfitted with a ComeUp USA Solo 9.5 Winch. It features a 9,500 lb. pull line rating, aluminum die-cast housings with steel drum, and both wired unless controller options are required. It’s a great option for an outfitted midsized truck like the GMC Canyon AT4X.

And, of course, you’ll need to pair your winch with an appropriate bumper. The bumper needs to be outfitted with a fairlead, and it needs to be compatible with or include a winch mounting plate. Since it’s intended for offroad use, being constructed from a strong material is a plus. The Mini-Fighter Stealth Front Bumper from 589 Fabrication is all of that and more. Not only does it provide a sturdy mounting location for the ComeUp Solo 9.5, but it’s also integrated with additional lighting, and it meshes well with the body panels on the Canyon.

Shovel

A sturdy recovery shovel can be essential for digging out tires buried in mud, snow, or sand. It’s a simple yet highly effective tool that can make a big difference in many recovery situations. While it might be appealing to find a short-handled shovel that tucks away nicely, consider the extra work needed to use a small shovel. A full-length shovel is easier to use and doesn’t take up that much extra roof space. The 2024 Ultimate Build is outfitted with the Max Tool Kit from Forrest Tool Company. This kit is based around a high-quality USA-made ax, and it includes a number of attachments that are handy in recovery situations.

Basic Recovery Techniques

Understanding how to use your gear is as important as having the right tools. The best way to be competent at vehicle recovery is to practice, practice, practice. Remember, “Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.”

An excellent way to learn and practice recovery techniques is at an Overland Expo event. Some of the most well-traveled and competent trainers in the off-road industry teach at Overland Expo events.  

Here are some basic recovery techniques that every overlander should know:

Self-Recovery with Traction Boards

If you’re stuck in soft terrain, recovery boards can be used to gain traction. Begin by digging out the front of each tire using your shovel or even the boards themselves. Place the boards as close to the wheels as possible, slightly angled under the tires. Gently accelerate to allow the tires to grip the boards and pull the vehicle free. Avoid spinning your tires, as it may dig you deeper into the terrain.

When shopping for recovery boards, consider purchasing in a bright color. While the neutral-colored boards might match your rig better or stand out less, the brighter the recovery board, the easier it is to find on the beach or in the mud hole. 

In a pinch, recovery boards can even be used to bridge a narrow gap in between rocks or cross a small ditch. Check your boards to make sure they are rated for bridging. The most common use for traction boards is typically to level a vehicle at a campsite that is not flat. 

Snatch Strap/Rope Recovery

When traveling with another vehicle, a snatch strap or kinetic rope recovery can be one of the quickest solutions to get unstuck. Attach the snatch strap or rope to rated recovery points on both vehicles (never use a tow ball). The rescuing vehicle should lay out the winch line with a kink that is visible from the side mirror and gently accelerate until the kink disappears, signaling the stuck vehicle to apply minimal and consistent throttle. The elasticity of the snatch strap will allow it to build momentum and pull the stuck vehicle out smoothly.

It is important to understand both the ratings of your snatch strap as it relates to the vehicles involved and how many times you can use it before letting it cool down or decommissioning it entirely. Traditional snatch straps are recovery consumables. Always inspect your gear for increased wear or damage before using. 

Winching

When using a winch, attach the cable to a sturdy anchor point, such as a tree or a large rock, with the use of a tree-saver strap. Slowly reel in the winch cable, maintaining constant tension while monitoring the cable for any signs of stress. Winching should be done slowly to avoid any sudden snaps or damage and to allow the winch to stay cool. 

When using a winch, safety should be the most important consideration. Always affix a winch blanket or recovery bag over the connection between the winch hook and the tree strap. If something fails, the winch blanket will weigh down the cable and prevent the hook from becoming a projectile. Ensure that all bystanders are out of the range of the winch rope if something were to break. When it comes to winching, always plan for the worst-case scenario. 

Tire Deflation

If you’re stuck in deep mud or sand, reducing tire pressure can increase the surface area of your tires and help them float on the soft terrain. When deflating your tires, aim for 50-65% of your highway tire pressure. Avoid going below 10-15 PSI, as the risk of dropping a bead becomes higher at these lower pressures. Keep in mind that as you lower tire pressure, your handling characteristics will change, and your steering will become boggy and less responsive. Lower pressures should equal lower speeds in general. 

Deflating your tires can also improve ride quality on corrugated and rough roads. A good rule of thumb for rough roads is to reduce your tire to 65-75% of your asphalt pressure. 

Always make sure that you have the means to inflate your tires back up after you deflate them. Tires driven on asphalt at low pressures are hard to handle, unpredictable, and will wear much faster than properly inflated tires. 

Safety Tips

Recovery can be dangerous if not handled correctly, so here are a few key safety tips:

• Use Rated Recovery Points: Always use manufacturer-rated recovery points when attaching straps, shackles, or winch cables. Using incorrect points can result in serious damage or injury.
• Avoid Standing in the Line of Fire: Stay clear of the direct line of any recovery straps or cables during the process. In the event of a failure, the straps or cables can recoil with deadly force.
• Communicate Clearly: If you’re working with others, ensure clear communication between drivers and recovery assistants. Establish hand signals or use radios to avoid confusion.
• Take Your Time: Rushing through a recovery increases the likelihood of mistakes. Assess the situation, double-check your gear, and proceed methodically to ensure everyone’s safety.

Preventive Measures

While recovery skills are vital, taking preventive measures can help you avoid recovery situations in the first place:

• Know Your Vehicle’s Capabilities: Understand your vehicle’s ground clearance, weight,  approach angles, and 4WD features to avoid putting it in a compromising position.
• Scout the Terrain: If you’re unsure of the conditions ahead, get out of the vehicle and assess the terrain on foot before driving through.
• Travel in Groups: Whenever possible, travel with at least one other vehicle. A companion can make recovery easier and provide a safety net if something goes wrong.
• Maintain Your Vehicle and Recovery Gear: Regularly inspect your recovery gear to ensure everything is in good working condition before hitting the trail.

Overland vehicle recovery is an essential skill for anyone venturing into off-road environments. With the right equipment, knowledge, and approach, you can tackle most recovery situations confidently and safely. As with any outdoor activity, preparation and practice are key. The more familiar you are with your gear and techniques, the better you’ll be able to handle any challenges that arise on your overland adventures.

So, pack your recovery gear, train with your gear and vehicle, stay safe, and enjoy exploring!

Just for the record, it is cringe to leave your waste and toilet paper laying around for someone else to deal with. Don’t do it!

Whether you’re new to the world of outdoor recreation or even if you’re a seasoned overland adventurer and have done your fair share of deep woods pooping, you’ll want to get a solid (and liquid) understanding of how to “take care of your business” in the backcountry. More importantly, what do you do with it when you’re done? While handling your bathroom business isn’t that big of a deal, we wanted to offer some advice on the best ways to handle nature’s call. Plus, we have some great equipment options you can carry to help make the process easy for yourself and your traveling companions. 

Why This Matters

Before we jump into the how-to portion of using the bathroom in the backcountry, let’s touch on why it’s important to do it the right way. With the number of people recreating in the wilderness rising, so is the impact that we’re all making. More than ever before, it’s important that we all focus on minimizing our impact and following Leave No Trace principles to the best of our abilities. 

It’s also worth noting that it falls to long-term overlanding enthusiasts to help educate the new people in our community. We all hate stumbling upon a beautiful area that’s littered with used toilet paper and other undesirable things, so let’s do our best to not only clean up after ourselves but inspire others to do the same. 

Set Up Your “Go” Kit

In the best-case scenarios, you can find a vault toilet or a portable restroom at trailheads or near popular destinations. These obviously help minimize the total impact on the environment. However, your experience in these situations can be enhanced by carrying just a few products in a small pouch called a “Go” Kit. 

Inside that kit, you should have some hand sanitizer or sanitizing wipes. However, if you bring wipes, also pack a small resealable bag to pack your wipes out. Wipes don’t break down as toilet paper does, and they can clog the tubes of the pump trucks that clean out vault toilets and portapotties. 

Sea to Summit makes excellent unscented sanitization wipes. The 75% alcohol formulation kills 99.99% of bacteria. The resealable flap really works well, so you don’t have to worry about the wipes drying out. 

It’s also worth keeping a headlamp with your bathroom kit. It may not be as performance-focused as your main headlamp, but a small one can help illuminate late-night cathole forays or even dark vault toilets. The Astro 2.0 from Black Diamond offers 300 lumens with an easy one-switch operation. 

Toilets on the Go

Overland vehicles are getting larger, and with all of that extra capacity comes the option to include a cassette or composting toilet inside your vehicle, camper, or trailer.

A cassette toilet is a compact solution that includes a small holding tank with a seat on top and a valve that separates the tank from the bowl. When you are ready to dump the tank, simply detach the seat from the tank and take it into any public restroom or RV dump station, and pour it out.

Oftentimes, travelers add a chemical pod to reduce odor and help break down waste. A composting toilet works similarly, but the holding area houses varying organic materials that help convert solid waste to compost that can be easily and legally disposed of. Urine is diverted into a separate holding tank on composting toilets. 

The Dometic SaniPottie Toilet 966 is a quality option that holds five gallons of waste in a relatively small package. Secure latches hold the seat and tank portion together until you’re ready to dump it out. It’s suitable for use inside or outside a rig when paired with a privacy tent. 

If you’re looking for a “next level” toileting experience, consider the Wrappon Trekker WT-4 Toilet System. The Trekker is an innovative camping toilet that sanitarily wraps and seals your waste without using any water. You simply put the wrapped waste in your garbage and throw it out when you get into town. This unit requires an AC adapter and it folds down into a compact shape when not in use.

Like anything involved with vehicle-based travel, there is no perfect solution. With an onboard toilet, you face challenges associated with the effective storage and disposal of waste. Plus, you must endure the constant sloshing of tanks or, worse yet, composting medium inside your vehicle. However, the benefits are apparent after one use.

Dig a Cat Hole, and When in Doubt, Wag it Out

On occasion, you will find yourself in a situation where there are no toilets available, and your only solution is to poop in the woods. Doing your business in the woods should always follow Leave No Trace Principles to protect our wild spaces and public lands from being trashed or closed to recreation because of overuse.

Digging a cathole is a simple process, and all you really need is a small shovel or spade, toilet paper, and, depending on the environment that you are in a wag bag. Find a location that is 200 feet from a water source with soft ground, dig your hole four to eight inches, wipe, and fill your hole with the same dirt that you removed initially. Check with your local ranger station to determine if you should bury or pack out your toilet paper.

Of course the shovel you carry on your rig will work, but if you want a separate lighter option, the Dig Dig Tool from Vargo is a great option. It’s constructed of strong titanium and includes serrated sides to cut through the soil. Weighing in at only 1.2 ounces it’s barely noticeable in hand, but it’s tough enough for years of use. 

If you are in an environment that has hard ground or is otherwise sensitive, simply use a wag bag to pack out your waste and toilet paper. Wag bags can take many forms, from the classic zip-lock bag and other commercially available products to more severe DIY applications like PVC pipe canisters used by river rafters. Although the idea of hauling fecal matter around isn’t glamorous, keeping our natural spaces clean and healthy should be the highest priority when we travel into the backcountry. 

If you’re looking for something more discreet than a zip-lock bag, wag bags are widely available at most outdoors stores and can be ordered in bulk online, so you always have one in your vehicle when nature calls. Leave No Trace, in conjunction with the National Forest Service, recommend Cleanwaste GO Anywhere waste bags. With a built-in “poo powder,” the GO Anywhere bags begin breaking down human waste and can hold up to 32 ounces of material. 

If you aren’t sure if you are in a sensitive environment or not, err on the side of caution and haul your waste and toilet paper out with you. There is nothing worse than traveling into the woods and finding that someone else has left their waste and trash behind for you to enjoy.

For more information and tips on using the bathroom while overlanding, check out this great video from Overland Expo instructors Matt and Tim. 

Depending on the type of adventurer you are, you may lean towards a kitchen knife for meal prep, a multi-tool clipped to your pocket for quick cuts and campsite fixes, or a fixed blade that’s dedicated to general camp tasks. 

No matter which type of knife you choose to carry, it’s critically important to keep it sharp. Not only will it perform better when you need it most, but a sharp knife is significantly safer than a dull one. This may seem counterintuitive, but when you’re fighting a dulled edge, you’re more likely to use more body weight to force the knife or forget safe-cutting practices. Simply put, a dull knife can lead to more injuries because you’re putting more force into the cut. If the knife slips, it could be disastrous.

Maintaining your knives, just like any other piece of equipment, takes a bit of know-how. Once you have the knowledge and a bit of equipment, you’ll just need to practice your sharpening skills. Before you know it, you’ll be able to bring a blade back to factory sharpness or even better. 

First, you’ll want to clean your knife to remove any dirt, debris, sap, resin, or strange residues that might be on your blade. Dish soap, water, a sponge, and a toothbrush will take care of most dirt and residue. 

After scrubbing, rinsing, and drying the knife, you can check for rust or stains. Some steels, particularly those with high carbon content, can corrode or stain. Obviously, you’ll want to remove any rust, but most stains aren’t harmful to the steel, and over time, the knife will gain a patina. 

Getting to Know Your Grind

When you sharpen your knife, you’ll want to match the grind angle and style as much as possible. If you imagine the line through the center of the blade as 0 degrees, then a thin knife that’s intended for slicing would have an edge angle somewhere between 5 and 10 degrees. The edge of a general-purpose pocket knife would most likely be 15 to 20 degrees, and blades intended for chopping wood or heavy work would be higher than 20 degrees. 

Many high-end sharpeners have degree settings, but even if you don’t use this method, being aware of the edge geometry will help properly sharpen your blade. 

Next up is to have the right tools to make sharpening your knife easier. I’ll outline a few tools you can use to achieve superior sharpness on your blade.

Whetstones

Whetstones are a cost-effective way to keep your blades sharp. These stones are unguided, so it is important to hold your blade at a consistent angle while you’re sharpening so it doesn’t get waves in the edge. 

Smith 6-inch Three Stone Sharpening System

The Smith 6 Three Stone Sharpening System features a 6-inch, Medium Arkansas Stone, 6-inch Fine Arkansas Stone, and 6-inch Coarse Synthetic Stone mounted on a molded plastic triangle with handles on the end for easy stone rotation. The sturdy molded plastic base has non-skid rubber feet for safety, a “V” trough to catch the oil drippings, and is easy to clean. A bottle of Premium Honing Solution and a sharpening angle guide are also included.

MSRP $35.97

DMT 3 6-inch Diamond Whetstone Sharpeners with Hardwood Box

DMT’s 3- 6-in. Diamond Whetstone sharpeners come in a handy hardwood box. One of their most popular sets of sharpening stones, this box fits well at home, in your overland rig, or camper, offering a sharpening surface to satisfy a variety of edge care needs. Extra-Fine diamond (9 micron / 1200 mesh) to polish and refine a razor edge after sharpening with a coarser diamond. Fine (25 micron / 600 mesh) for a razor-sharp edge; Coarse (45 micron / 325 mesh) to quickly restore a neglected edge. Best of all, you can use these stones wet or dry.

MSRP $99.97

Other Sharpening Tools

A guided sharpening tool is designed to hold your blade at a consistent angle while you sharpen it, ensuring an evenly sharp blade. These compact tools allow you to sharpen your blades anywhere with ease.

Benchmade Guided Field Sharpener

The Guided Field Sharpener is a great compact sharpener packed with features. With coarse and fine diamond plates, a ceramic honing rod, and a leather strop, you can bring a dull blade back to shaving sharp. The built-in 20-degree angle guides ensure a consistent bevel angle across the entire edge of the blade. Not only can you sharpen your knife in the field, but you can also sharpen scissors, fish hooks, broadheads, and more.

MSRP $45.00

Sharpening Other Tools

Just as a sharp knife cuts best, make sure your other tools are well-maintained. Many overlanders carry axes and saws, and those are the types of tools that you want to work well when you need them. Saws can be tricky to sharpen, but axes and hatchets use many of the same principles as knives. While you can use a smaller sharpening tool on an ax, a dedicated ax sharpening stone will make the process quicker and safer. 

Straight Grain Supply Dual-Grit Axe Sharpening Stone

A dedicated axe sharpener like this one from Straight Grain Supply offers several benefits over other methods of sharpening an ax. The increased surface area will help you sharpen a large edge quickly. The finger grooves provide an excellent grip and keep your hand away from the edge. One side is rated at 80 grit so that you can quickly remove material to repair chips and dings, and the other side is 200 grit for refining the edge.

MSRP $39.00

The Leading Edge

How do you know when you need to sharpen your blade? Use the paper test. A sharp blade should be able to slice through paper without any tearing or hang-ups. If a certain spot on your blade causes tears and hang-ups, that’s the area you want to pay attention to when you sharpen it.

Always begin with the coarsest-grit stone and then progress to fine-grit stones to fine-tune your edge. You may not need the coarsest grit each time you sharpen if your blade is in good condition and you take care of it. Coarse grits are for burrs, and fine grit stones are for honing. If your blade is in good condition, simply honing it will keep it in fine cutting form for many years to come. 

Start at the top of the stone and drag it lightly along the blade (following the angle) for three to five strokes until you feel a burr form. Then, flip the knife over and drag it three to five times on the other side of the edge. Check your work on scrap paper and fix any trouble spots. Rinse and repeat as necessary. 

You might find that some knives are easier to sharpen than others. It’s also likely that the knife that is easiest to sharpen needs to be sharpened the most. This is because different steels have different levels of hardness. This is indicated by their Rockwell scale reading. For example, a knife with a Rockwell reading of 55 will need to be sharpened relatively often to maintain a fine edge. At the same time, that blade will be very resilient in terms of bending and flexing the blade. An identical knife, except with a Rockwell score of 60, will hold an edge longer, but it won’t be able to flex as much before breaking. Again, this goes back to knowing the intended use of the specific knife. 

As with most things, it’s better to maintain an edge than totally rework it when it’s duller than a butter knife. Leather strops and ceramic honing rods are great for quick maintenance and for keeping your edge at its highest performance level. 

As a long-time explorer of National Forest fire roads, I’m old enough to remember when the only way to find a 4×4 trail was to check out a DeLorme Atlas and Gazetteer, call or visit a ranger station and ask for advice, get some beta from one of the locals while getting supplies in town, or simply finding a cool looking road and go exploring. Somehow, I managed to find some pretty incredible and untouched places without the use of electronics.

While finding an overland trail is now a pretty simple task, you do need to learn how to use these products correctly to ensure your safety out on the trails. While I’m a big proponent of winging it and discovering new trails on the fly, any good trip starts with some prior proper planning and choosing trails that you want to explore.

Here are a few of my favorite ways to find new overland trails.

Word of Mouth

Sometimes, the best way to find an overland trail is to simply ask someone. I’m not talking about the random guy on the street of the small town that you happen to be in that day – though sometimes that guy has some great beta about a trail or a campsite you knew nothing about – so definitely talk to strangers when you’re on your trips.

I’m actually talking about reaching out to the local/regional U.S. National Forest or Bureau of Land Management office and talking to a ranger either in person or over the phone. The stewards of our public lands have more information than most about whether or not your stock Tacoma can make it down a primitive two-track. I always find it better to drop into an office in person because once they see my rig, they know that I can handle most trails, and they often give me advice about their favorite spots.

Most rangers will direct you to the U.S. Forest Service Off-Highway Vehicle Program printable and digital maps. These maps contain a treasure trove of information about the area you’re visiting and a fantastic starting point for any planning session. Grab your favorite adult beverage and head down the planning rabbit hole.

Paper Maps

Paper maps will never go away! Imagine running out of batteries in your GPS unit or not having cell service to power your app-based mapping software. How are you going to get back to civilization? I always buy paper maps or download US Forest Service maps for every area I plan to travel…and I learn to use them. They are an important part of overlanding safely.

Here are some of my favorite paper maps.

DeLorme Atlas & Gazetteer

These amazingly detailed, large-format paper maps are perfect for sightseeing, exploring back roads, outdoor recreation, and trip planning. While available information varies by state, DeLorme maps (now owned by Garmin) generally provide information essential for any outdoor enthusiast and include info on points of interest, landmarks, state and national parks, campgrounds, boat launches, golf courses, historic sites, hunting zones, canoe trips and more. Topographic maps have elevation contours, major highways and roads, dirt roads, trails, and land-use data. These maps are truly indispensable!

MSRP: Varies, but averages around $24.99

Purple Lizard Maps

These plastic-coated, shade relief topographic maps feature latitude/longitude and UTM grids, elevation and mileage data, roads, backroads and trails, road- and trail-use designations, parking access, and more. Durable, two-sided, waterproof construction folds easily to fit in your back pocket or in a tank bag on your motorcycle. These maps are also the perfect size to carry with you on every trip.

MSRP $17.00

GPS Units

The U.S. Department of Defense (USDOD) originally put Global Positioning System (GPS) satellites into orbit for military use, but these were made available for civilian use in the 1980s. GPS is a satellite-based navigation system made up of satellites that orbit the Earth. GPS will work in all weather conditions, anywhere in the world. The system is completely free to use, but it does require the purchase of a GPS unit with software to access the system. 

GPS units are fairly easy to use, but I do advise you to become a power-user of your unit, so you know every feature prior to attempting to use it in the backcountry.

Here are a couple of units that I recommend.

Garmin inReach Mini 2

The Garmin inReach Mini 2 provides satellite-based communication off the grid, and can share your location online with friends and family members with a subscription. The SOS function calls search and rescue in an emergency. The inReach Mini 2 provides TracBack routing to get you back to your starting point the same way you came in, and it pairs directly with the Garmin Explore app on smartphones and tablets. 

Pairing the inReach with a tablet is my preferred method of navigation. The inReach can be used on its own as a GPS for hiking or SUP when I’m not on the trail.

MSRP: $400

Garmin Tread® XL – Overland Edition

If you’re looking for one GPS unit that does it all – on-road or off-road, the Garmin Tread XL is the one to consider. This huge 10-inch unit features turn-by-turn directions for North and South American roads, off-highway guidance with topography maps and compass, and built-in inReach technology. This unit can even track your dog as long as you have the Garmin dog tracker on your furry friend’s collar!

The topographic maps include public land boundaries and 4×4 roads. You can download tracks, routes, and waypoints via Wi-Fi connectivity and store them in the 64GB memory storage, which can hold satellite imagery and USCG quad sheets.

The Garmin Tread XL has a built-in rechargeable battery that lasts for six hours at 50% backlight or one hour at 100% backlight.

MSRP: $1,499.99

App-Based Navigation

GPS units might soon be a thing of the past with the technological strides that smartphones are making. While phone makers need to address a few issues, there is a very real possibility that your phone, or a phone paired with a tablet, might be your next navigation setup.

Not all apps are created equal, and you need to be sure they perform the functions that you need them to perform when you’re off-the-grid. Google Maps just isn’t gonna cut it here. You need an app that has all of the features of a GPS unit, like topo maps, satellite imagery, and public land boundaries. onX Offroad and GaiaGPS are great apps that have been tested and recommended by overland travelers.

Apps give you the flexibility to plan on the go but do require you to download maps and store them prior to hitting the point where you no longer have cell service. Don’t make the mistake of getting out the trail and thinking your app will work without mobile data!

These are the products and information I use and rely on to plan my travels and the devices I use when I am out on the trail. Redundancy is important when traveling in the backcountry, so bring and use all of these products in tandem to ensure you have something to fall back on if one of your devices fails.

Planning is one of the best parts of overlanding, and with this information, you’re sure to be able to find the perfect overland trail that fits your needs and sense of adventure.

If you know nothing about cooking, never fear; there’s a great resource at the end of this article to help you plan your meals in the backcountry.

Our ancestors in the Paleolithic era threw hunks of meat onto open flame up to two million years before contemporary humans learned how to grill a perfect steak, but whether you call it barbecue, grilling, braai, yakitori, barbie, tandoor, barbacoa, or char siu, the technique is the same – placing meat or veggies over a direct flame to sear them, creating a Maillard Reaction, a chemical reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars that gives fire-cooked food its distinctive flavor.

Since life began on the African continent, I thought I’d focus on two open-fire cooking techniques that originated in South Africa — potjie (pronounced poi-key) and braai.

Open Fire Cooking: Braai and Potjie

While a braai can be a verb and a noun, there is one thing it absolutely isn’t – cooking with gas. Braai is intended to be cooked on an open fire. In fact, South Africans don’t consider anything cooked over gas as a braai. In a braai, the fire remains lit after the food is cooked and becomes a gathering place where people can talk, drink, get warm, and consume their favorite adult beverages. Or, as we call it, a perfect end to a great day in the backcountry.

On the other hand, Potjie (or potjiekos) is translated as “small-pot food” and refers to a cast-iron cauldron, also known as a Dutch oven, that is meant to be cooked over an open fire of wood or charcoal. Potjie was brought to South Africa by the Dutch Voortrekkers, and this cooking method is perfect for hearty stews, bread, potatoes, or anything you want to cook. If you don’t have the first clue about how to cook in a potjie, tons of books are available online to get you started – hit up your favorite online retailer, or better yet, go to a bookstore and order directly from the publisher.

True to their South African roots, Front Runner Outfitters has some great products to help you cook over open flames while you’re out in the backcountry while saving precious cargo space in your vehicle in the process. Here are a couple of my favorites:

Potjie Pot / Dutch Oven & Carrier

There’s no better place to keep potentially hot, grimy, dirty, and cumbersome camp kitchen supplies than up and out of the way, outside the vehicle. Knowing that the Front Runner Potjie Pot Carrier offers a sensible way to travel with a potjie pot. The 2.1-gallon, cast-iron potjie pot is secured in the bracket by the three legs. The supplied ratchet strap threads through the lid of the pot and fixed points on the bracket. The entire system affixes to any platform rack with ease.

MSRP: $249.00

Front Runner Spare Tire Mount Braai / BBQ Grate

This ingenious stainless steel cooking grate stores over your spare wheel (fits 29” to 35” tires) and takes up virtually zero space. The grate features both grill and griddle sections, which are useful for all types of cooking. This grill is designed to be used over hot coals and not over a roaring fire.

MSRP: $259.00

These brands also have some great products to help you get the most out of your open-fire cooking. Here are a few that I think are perfect for the overlander as they fold flat and take up very little space when not in use:

Snow Peak Tabiki – Medium

The Snow Peak Tabiki is a grill and raised firebox for wherever you roam. It folds flat for compact packing in cars, and the stainless steel construction keeps it sturdy for seasons of cooking camp meals traditionally. The grill grate adjusts its height closer or farther from the fire for customized control.

MSRP: $349.95

Primus Kamoto OpenFire Pit – Large

Being a good steward of our public lands means leaving no trace. The Primus Kamoto OpenFire Pit raises your fire off the ground so you can enjoy a fire without damaging the earth around your campsite. This fire pit folds flat for easy storage and includes a grilling grate for cooking up your favorite delectables.

MSRP: $179.95

Barebones Living Cowboy Grill Steel Skewers

Kebabs are so simple for a quick camp dinner and a great way to use up veggies and meat from the fridge! These skewers are great for easy cooking over an open fire. The sharp tip makes it easy to stick your favorite foods on the skewer, and the flat shape ensures the food stays on and turns when you are ready to turn it. Since they’re flat, finding a home for them in your rig is easy. 

MSRP: $24.99

Oh, and one more thing. Here’s a link to Primus’ Culinary Heights Cookbook to help you elevate your open fire camp meals:

I hope you enjoy some open-fire cooking while on the trails next!

There is going to be a time when you’ll need a well-stocked first aid kit to get you through until you can get out of the backcountry and back to civilization to seek medical attention. If it isn’t you or your friends that need your first aid kit, it might be a fellow overlander, hiker, or mountain biker in an emergency situation that needs your help.

Owning a first aid kit is one thing – knowing how to use it is another story. Whether you build out your first aid kit yourself or buy one off the shelf, it’s always best to have a fundamental understanding of life-saving techniques and how to use the items in your first aid kit effectively. I am not a doctor or first responder, so I highly recommend taking a Wilderness First Aid course or seminar from a reputable organization like the ones below;

National Outdoor Leadership School

NOLS offers wilderness medicine courses that will prepare you to recognize, treat, and prevent injuries and illnesses that are common in the outdoors. You’ll learn NOLS’ industry-leading, data-informed curriculum and build new skills through hands-on practice scenarios. https://www.nols.edu/en/

Fieldcraft Survival

Fieldcraft Survival offers one-day courses and seminars in Family Wilderness Medicine, First Aid, and Trauma Response to help you become more adept at treating small or life-threatening injuries. The also offer training in several locations across the country so there’s likely one near you. https://fieldcraftsurvival.com/training/medical/

Wilderness Medical Associates International

Wilderness Medical Associates International offers both standard and specialized courses in Wilderness First Aid, First Responder, and Life-Support taught by rescue professionals, researchers, experienced educators, and advocates for healthcare in wilderness contexts. Learn more here: http://www.wildmed.com/

Once you have the knowledge, it’s time to get a decently-outfitted kit for emergency situations. You can pick up your initial or refill supplies at MyMedic or REI. Let’s take a look at some of the common injuries and some of the items any good first aid kit will contain;

Burns, Cuts, or Scrapes

This is by far the most common type of medical treatment you’ll provide in a backcountry setting. Some items in this part of your first aid kit can include; an irrigation syringe, tweezers, gauze rolls, and pads, bandages, band-aids, antibiotic ointments, and adhesive cloth medical tape.

Strains, Sprains, and Fractures

Another common injury category in the outdoors is strains, sprains, and fractures. Some necessary items here include products to immobilize the limb or joint so you can get the person out of the backcountry and to a doctor with minimal pain, including; triangular bandages, ACE bandages, splints, adhesive cloth tape, or even duct tape to tape the limb to the person’s body, and cold compresses.

Medications

At some point in your outdoor adventures, you or someone you know will need medication to alleviate the symptoms of bites, stings, food-borne illness, and many other afflictions. It is imperative to keep the following medications on hand (and within the expiration date); oral glucose, aspirin and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), antihistamines, antidiarrheals, stool softeners, electrolyte powdered drink mix, topical pain relief, hydrocortisone creams, triple antibiotic ointment, and saline, as well as any necessary meds your travel mates need – like an epinephrine auto-injector or prescription meds.

Airway, Breathing, and Circulation

While massive medical issues won’t always happen, it is a good idea to have a CPR shield on hand to give CPR if needed. Some other items here might include a blood pressure cuff or monitor and a cervical collar. Get CPR certified at The American Red Cross.

Miscellaneous

It’s advisable to stock your first aid kit with an emergency blanket, non-latex gloves, scalpels, scissors, notebooks and pens, Sharpies, water filtration tabs, and a thermometer to round out your kit.

Off-the-Shelf First Aid Kits

Not everyone wants to, or has the time to, build out their first aid kit. Luckily, there are some great products out there that are a perfect fit for overland and backcountry travel. Let’s take a look at a few below;

Adventure Medical Kits Mountain Series Guide Medical Kit

This group first aid kit contains an abundance of hospital-quality first aid supplies to meet the needs of seven people headed into the backcountry on adventures of up to two weeks. Inside, you’ll find everything from everyday hiking essentials like After Bite^® and GlacierGel to wilderness first aid supplies like the flexible C-Splint and QuikClot^®. The water-resistant medical bag organizes the contents by injury into clearly-labeled, semi-transparent pockets using the Easy Care organization system, making it easy for anyone in your group to provide fast and effective first aid. Whether you’re a professional guide looking for an expedition first aid kit or an adventurer looking for a wilderness first aid kit, the Mountain Guide kit is the essential addition to your gear that your team can count on to get you there and back safely.

MyMedic Recon First Aid Kit

This 250-item, backpack-style first aid kit has just about everything you need to be ready for injuries while on the road or hiking. The Recon features back padding for comfort and function, a stowable shoulder straps with seatbelt style webbing for various storage capabilities, quick-access front pockets for trauma and everyday use items, flat lay, and a fully modular organization system with interior mesh pockets, and much more.

Uncharted Supply Co. Core First Aid Kit

For those looking for a small kit to fit in a backpack or something accessible in your rig, look no further than the Core First Aid Kit by Uncharted Supply Co. The Uncharted First Aid Kit is small enough to fit in your backpack, attach to your belt, or strap to your bicycle. Designed by leading first aid experts to contain the essential first aid contents required for emergency situations, this little kit can help you save a life. Packaged under 200 grams, the First Aid Kit is water-resistant, user-friendly, and invaluable in an emergency. In addition to its careful selection of items, it also contains CPR instructions.

Adventure Medical Kits Trail Dog First Aid Kit

Your furry friend can get injured in the backcountry too. This dog-specific kit gives you comprehensive medical solutions for your trail buddy. It is catered to the types of injuries dogs encounter most on the trail – primarily to their paws, with an assortment of dressings, bandages, and tools like the splinter picker/tick removers to remove ticks, thorns, or those pesky fox tails.

Whether you choose to build your own or buy a pre-made kit, it is critical to carry a first aid kit with you in overland and backcountry situations. Get familiar with your kit, know where items are located, and get the proper training to know what to do in an emergency.

It could be the difference between life and death.

Packing for adventure riding is an exercise in minimalism. Every pound of weight you strap, stow, or stuff into a pannier on the back of your bike equals lower gas mileage, increased tire wear, and decreased handling. Just because it will fit in your moto luggage doesn’t mean you should bring it on your trip. The last thing you want to do is overpack and end up having a more limited experience by lugging around all of that gear.

Like all things overlanding, you’ll figure out systems that work for you with time and experience. Remember that a handful of basics go a long way. Try to pack things that have multiple uses or, if they don’t have multiple uses, pack items that you simply can’t live without.

Here are a few tips to help you get geared up, pack smart, camp in comfort, and have an awesome adventure ride.

Adventure Motorcycle Packing – Luggage

When it comes to packing for adventure riding, one of the main considerations is how to actually carry your gear. The first part of that is keeping weight low, forward, and centered – as much as you possibly can. Remember, anything strapped to your bike behind the rear wheel or above the center of the bike is going to affect your handling both on– and off–road.

Of course, you can always strap a duffel bag down with bungee cords and hit the road, but when you’re headed for some serious off-road, you’ll want a system that’s a bit more secure and efficient.

Whether you go with hard panniers, soft bags, or a combination of the two, your luggage should be super-durable and attach securely to your bike. Hard and soft bags each have their pros and cons, but selecting from the wide variety of moto luggage on the market is mainly a matter of preference. Take into consideration what sort of riding you’ll be doing, and you’ll find great options that suit your needs.

Soft luggage is generally made of ballistic nylon, making it abrasion resistant and durable. Often, soft luggage has roll-top closures and integrated waterproofing. Lighter than hard cases, soft luggage can be safer for off-road use as it reduces the risk of your leg being trapped between your pannier and bike when you fall.

The Mosko Moto Reckless 80L doesn’t require side pannier racks, saving significant weight and cost. The adjustable leg angle makes it equally at home on smaller enduros and on larger ADV bikes alike. It expands and contracts to accommodate a wide variety of loads, making it a super-versatile luggage system for all adventures, long or short. The Reckless 80 consists of a harness, two 25-liter dry bags, and a Stinger 22-liter tail bag. 

MSRP: $930.00

Hard panniers are lockable and open conveniently, allowing for easy access to the contents inside. Generally made of aluminum or plastic, they are heavier than soft bags but are great for keeping valuables secure and protecting any expensive items from being crushed when your bike takes the occasional nap on the trail. 

The Givi Outback Side Cases are built for rugged travel. Made entirely of aluminum, the Outback cases are designed with shock resistance and the stresses of off-road riding in mind. An innovative Monokey Side Cam system allows the top case and panniers to lock using the same key to keep things simple. 

MSRP: $490.00 – $892.00

For easy access to the little necessities like your wallet, chapstick, and earplugs, a tank bag is the perfect solution. The super small, waterproof 1.5-liter Giant Loop Buckin’ Roll Tank Bag is designed to carry the basic essentials that you’d want to keep dry when out on a ride. Its scant size allows the bag to be installed just behind the filler cap of most bikes, so you don’t need to move it out of the way when filling up. The bag itself zippers off of the base harness for easy transitions between backwoods riding versus hare scrambles.

MSRP: $99.00

Adventure Motorcycle Packing – Tools

Having a reliable tool kit is critical for roadside repairs and daily bike maintenance. The SBVTools Pro Mechanic kit is easily the most cleverly designed tool roll on the market. Each tool is lightweight, high quality, and compact. Backed by a lifetime warranty and complete with Torx bits, Hex bits, wrenches, sockets, ratchets, and more, the SBV tool roll packs a garage-worth of tools into a tidy pouch.

MSRP: $349.00  

The BikeMaster Tire And Tube Flat Repair Kit includes everything you need to fix a tubeless or tube-type tire. Complete with patches, plugs, tools, glue, and more. It also includes four CO2 compressed air cylinders with an air valve and flexible line that connects directly to the tire valve, so you can air back up when the repair is done.

MSRP: $47.65 

PACKING PRO TIP:  No matter how much carrying capacity you have on your panniers, extra straps always comes in handy. Bring along some straps or extra webbing for lashing down your water bottle or dry bag to your saddlebags. They’re also super useful for gathering firewood for camp!

Adventure Motorcycle Packing – Camping Gear

When you’re headed out on an extended adventure ride, your camping gear needs to be durable and suited to the environment that you’re traveling in. Space is at a premium on your motorbike, so you’ll want to choose gear that packs small and pulls its weight in more ways than one.

Having a tent that lets you sleep soundly through an overnight storm is essential, and when it doubles as a mosquito-free sanctuary in summer, even better. When it comes to choosing a tent for adventure riding, a one-person tent saves space, while a two-person tent gives you extra room to move or share the tent with your favorite riding buddy. Whichever way you go, choose a tent with plenty of vestibule space to stash your boots and gear someplace dry.

An ultralight two-person tent like the semi-freestanding NEMO Hornet Ultralight 2P Tent offers plenty of livability for adventure riding, thanks to its large door and a 39-inch peak height to provide plenty of headroom when you’re inside. The trapezoidal vestibules with multiple roll-back points provide gear storage and a view of the stars on clear nights. Best of all, it packs down into its own stuff sack, making packing a breeze.

MSRP: $429.95  

The REI Co-op Trail Hut 2 Tent with Footprint is a two-person freestanding dome that is easy to set up. With a door and vestibule on either side, the Trail Hut maximizes accessibility and makes for plenty of weatherproof gear storage and hangout space. Don’t let the low price fool you. This tent is rugged enough for your moto travels.

MSRP: $199.95  

Packing Pro Tip: When you pack your tent, ditch the stuff sack! Tents pack down small and can fill the nooks and crannies in your panniers to keep your other gear in place. You might even put the tent fly in one pannier and the mesh body in the other one— that way you can pitch one part without the other, and not have to unpack more than necessary.

Your sleeping bag and pad are as much a matter of personal preference as anything in your adventure kit. Getting a good night’s sleep fuels your adventure, and though you might be tempted to skimp on your sleep kit to save space, remember that catching some quality z’s is essential to riding your best.

Down-filled bags pack smaller than synthetic ones, and the colder a bag is rated, the more space it will take up in your luggage. Bringing a lighter-weight bag and doubling down your long undies can certainly save valuable packing space. That said, you don’t want to forgo an amazing campsite on the side of a mountain just because your sleeping bag is rated for the Sahara desert.

Insulated with water-resistant 850-fill-power goose down, the REI women’s Magma 30 sleeping bag rides light in your panniers and delivers excellent warmth-to-weight ratio. The Men’s Magma 30 can be found here.

MSRP: $349.00  

The Therm-a-Rest Corus 32 Quilt eliminates the bottom layer of your sleeping bag to save space on warm riding trips. The footbox slips over your pad to eliminate drafts, and the quilt features box baffled construction using mesh walls to maximize down loft and minimize cold spots

MSRP: $269.95  

Sleeping on your riding jacket for padding is usually a bit of a bummer. Bringing along a sleeping pad keeps you off the ground, insulated, and way more comfortable. The Therm-a-rest Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT Sleeping Pad packs down to the size of a water bottle, inflates easily, and adds a healthy dose of off-road comfort. 

MSRP: $199.95 – $239.95 

The Therm-A-Rest Stuff Sack Pillow is a dual-purpose storage sack that doubles as a pillow. When it’s time to hit the hay, turn it inside out and stuff some clothes inside for an instant pillow. The brushed polyester reverse side is super comfy and guarantees sweet dreams of epic rides.

MSRP: $20.95

Packing Pro Tip: Waterproof stuff sacks keep your sleeping gear dry and double as an off-road washing machine. Just put your dirty clothes in with a squirt of soap and enough water, seal the dry bag up and knead it clean. Rinse your clothes and hang them on your bike to dry!

Adventure Motorcycle Packing – Cooking Gear

Dinner after a long day of riding may just be the best thing ever. Whatever you whip up on the trail is going to be particularly delicious, and keeping it simple is often the name of the game when space is limited. Your backcountry cooking, like the rest of your kit, will develop over time, but when you’re new to longer adventure riding trips, start with the basics, and you’ll be plenty satisfied.

The Jetboil Flash is the classic do-it-all stove for moto camping. It boils water in less than two minutes, and the whole setup packs down into the cookpot for easy storage. The best part of this stove is that it is the same diameter as a standard French press, so bring along the plunger from your home press and brew your coffee in the Jetboil pot before you hit the trail.

MSRP: $124.95  

Big enough for two but small enough for one, the MSR PocketRocket Deluxe stove kit comes with a pressure-regulated, fast-boiling PocketRocket Deluxe stove that nests snugly in the kit’s ultra-compact Trail Mini Duo cookset. The stove’s push-start ignition, extra serving bowl, and broad burner make cooking easy. The aluminum pot is just the right size for simple meals and holds the stove, pot lifter, and fuel canister inside.

MSRP: $139.95

Adventure Motorcycle Packing – Water

Hydration is the key to happiness when you’re riding, and bringing a combination of water bladders and insulated bottles is a winning combination. The 40 fl. oz. Hydro Flask Wide-Mouth vacuum water bottle keeps you quenched on the trail and keeps your water frosty cold. The 18/8 stainless-steel construction is bombproof and won’t bust when you drop your bike on it. The proprietary powder coating is BPA-free and is ready to display all your favorite moto stickers.

MSRP: $49.95

Pair your insulated bottles with an MSR Dromedary six-liter bag for maximum hydration. The drom is completely collapsible for efficient packing and offers serious water storage for trips through the drylands. Made of a tough 1000-denier exterior and laminated with an improved BPA-free food-grade lining, the bag is sturdy and keeps your water tasting good.

MSRP: $54.95  

I’ve seen some bad recovery situations out on the trail made exponentially worse by folks who improperly rig their winch lines, extract a vehicle using factory tie-down points – instead of frame-mounted tow points, and those that have a general disregard for safety measures in a winching situation.

I’ll give you some very high-level tips in this article but let’s be crystal clear, reading this piece is not enough for you to get out and start using your winch. Please take a class (or better yet, classes – plural) from certified instructors who have spent many hours honing their craft and know (and, more importantly, can teach) proper winch safety. If you’re looking for a great way to learn winching techniques, buy yourself an Overland Experience training ticket and take classes at an Overland Expo near you.

Buying a Winch

There are so many great winches on the market today that you’d be safe with just about any winch from any reputable company. You’ll need to consider a couple of criteria before pulling the trigger on that big purchase. Number one, what vehicle are you installing the winch on? An 8000-lb. winch is not going to be any good for a 10,000-lb. truck.

A good place to start is to find out your vehicle’s Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) – this is usually noted on the plate attached to the edge of the driver’s door. This weight DOES NOT include any modifications, including bumpers, drawer systems, or anything that you’ve bolted onto your rig. To get an accurate GVW, find a public scale near you and drive down to get your truck weighed fully loaded.

Once you have that number, add about 30-50% to that weight. Say your fully loaded truck weighs 6,000 lbs. You’ll want a winch that’s rated to at least 9,000 lbs. If you think you’ll be recovering not just yourself but larger vehicles as well, you’ll want to go for a heavy-duty winch capable of pulling 12,000 – or 15,000 lbs.

Here are a couple of winches for your consideration.

Warn ZEON 12-S Recovery 12000-lb Winch

The WARN ZEON has proven itself in the field and among overlanders. Now you can get the 12,000-pound capacity ZEON winch with Spydura Pro synthetic rope instead of steel cable. The new ZEON 12-S winch trims weight but keeps plenty of muscle for the big jobs and the toughest rescues. And the light, easy-to-handle synthetic rope makes any winching situation a bit easier. It’s the perfect choice for heavily loaded off-road vehicles.

MSRP: $1,689.99

SuperWinch LP10000 12V Wire Rope Winch

The Superwinch LP10000 provides heavy-duty features at an affordable price. The LP10000 features many of the standard features found on much more expensive 10,000 lbs winches, including a 5.1 HP sealed motor and upgraded components, such as a weather-resistant roller fairlead, clevis-pinned latched hook, and sealed solenoid with integrated circuit breaker.

MSRP: $678.99

The Key to Winch Safety is a Good Recovery Kit

Don’t skimp on proper recovery gear. Any recovery kit worth its weight will have working load limits (WLL) and minimum breaking strength (WBS) printed on the equipment. High-quality recovery gear will also print serial numbers and manufacture dates so you know how long you’ve had each piece of gear. Like a gallon of milk, recovery gear has an expiration date and should be replaced on a schedule depending on how often you use it or if you notice fraying or excessive wear.

So, what’s in a recovery kit? Every kit is different, but the kit you buy for your winch might have the following equipment in it; soft shackles, galvanized bow shackles, a sling or tree strap, a winch extension rope, a dampener, gloves, and a carry bag.

You’ll want to keep your recovery kit in a very accessible place, considering this kit is your lifeline in a sticky situation. Don’t store your recovery kit in a drawer in the back of your rig – what if you slide off a trail and the rear of your vehicle is wedged against a tree or a rock – how would you access your gear?

Don’t know where to start with recovery kits? Here are a couple of off-the-shelf kits that will get you started. Remember that as you progress, you’ll find pieces that work better for you than others. Not every off-the-shelf kit works for everyone. You’ll want to add a pair of high-quality gloves and protective eyewear to your kit as well.

ARB Essentials Recovery Kit

The ARB Essentials Recovery Kit contains everything you need to get off-road, including a tree trunk protector, snatch strap, bow shackles, and snatch block. With an ARB recovery kit and recovery essentials, you have the peace of mind of carrying a purpose-built recovery bag filled with a selection of items that will come in handy the next time you get stuck.

MSRP: $332.00

Warn Epic Accessory Kit

This Warn Heavy-Duty Epic Recovery Kit features the right gear to help get you out of tight off-road situations. This kit includes premium Warn Epic shackles, a tree trunk protector, a snatch block, a recovery strap, and gloves. The components fit neatly inside the modular backpack, which also acts as a winch line damper and is easy to transport. This kit is designed for winch capacities of up to 18,000 lbs.

MSRP: $591.99

Basic Winching Techniques & Tips

Once you have a winch and the properly rated gear, you’re ready to start winching. Again, don’t even think about doing this until you’ve had some training. I can’t stress enough how dangerous a winch cable under load can be. If you don’t have access to training, try to go on trips with people with some vehicle recovery experience and learn from them. Don’t wait until you need to extract yourself to read up on proper techniques.

Assess the Situation

You’re stuck. Before you leave your vehicle, make sure you put the vehicle into “Park” and engage the emergency brake. If you’re on a hill, chock the downhill tires to prevent rollaways.

Get out of your vehicle and take five or ten minutes to take a deep breath and look around you. Assess the area. If you’re alone on the trail, are there trees nearby that you can use as an anchor point? How about large boulders? What does the area look like from your vehicle to your anchor point? Are there sharp rocks or a stone shelf that could abrade your rope? If you’re with other people with vehicles, do they have a winch of their own? Where are they in relation to your vehicle? In front? Behind? Before you ever take your recovery kit out of the vehicle, you should know which type of pull you’re doing and how you’re planning to rig your winch.

My favorite piece of advice that I received is to make a cup of tea, eat something, and think things through. You’re not going to get unstuck in the ten or fifteen minutes it will take you to make tea and consider all of the possibilities. You’ll also be in a far better mood.

Rigging Your Winch

First things first. Put on your gloves and protective eyewear. Winches have pinch points that can crush or sever fingers. Always be aware of where your fingers are in relation to the winch drum and fairlead area. As you’re spooling out your rope or cable, always inspect it for fraying, kinks, or other damage. If your line is damaged, don’t use it.

All winch pulls should be in a straight line from the vehicle to the anchor point to minimize the bunching of rope or cable at one end of the winch drum. Given this information, you’ll need to know if you are doing a single-line, double-line, or triple-line pull.

A single-line pull is the easiest; Put on your gloves and eye protection, unspool your winch line, and drag it to the nearest anchor point – whether that’s a tree trunk (always use a tree protector), a large boulder, or another vehicle with anchors attached to the frame. Secure your winch line with a strap, a shackle (either soft or metal), or both. Lock the clutch on your winch, and either use the controls on the winch or on a remote to slowly place the line under tension. Use a dampening mat, coat, or blanket draped over the line to prevent it from flying if it snaps. Get behind the wheel of your vehicle or behind the door and use slow, controlled pulls to extract your vehicle. Before you begin another pull, check to see what your vehicle is doing and readjust as necessary. This is not a race – go as slow as possible and as fast as necessary.

A double-line pull is similar, but you’ll employ the aid of a snatch block (or pulley) to provide more pulling power. Your winch line will go to the first anchor point, where you’ll attach a strap and a snatch block. You will then run your line through the snatch block and back to a frame-anchored point on your vehicle. Use the same safety measures from the description of the single-line pull above. Using this method doubles your pulling power – e.g., an 8,000-lb. winch can pull 16,000 lbs., but your rope length and line speed are halved.

If you’re really stuck, you may want to triple your pulling power with a triple-line pull. Similar to the double line, your winch line will go to the first anchor point, where you’ll attach a strap and a snatch block. You will then run your line through the snatch block and back to a frame-anchored point on your vehicle, where you’ll run your line through a second snatch block and feed your line through to another anchor point. Use the same safety measures from the description of the single-line pull above.

Be aware that there are many situations, trail types, and weather conditions that will require you to change angles, use other vehicles or anchor points, and use workarounds for rigging. The most important thing is to always use your winch with proper safety measures in place and treat any winch pull under load as potentially hazardous.

Clean Up and Prepare for the Next Recovery

Once you’re on solid ground, put your vehicle in Park, and engage the emergency brake. Turn off the power to the winch and disengage the clutch. Spool out some line from your winch and allow the line to hit the ground. Please remember that even though it is loose, this line is still live until you disengage the line from your anchor point. If the vehicle shifts at all, this line could tighten up again and cause injuries, so always treat it as a live line. Disengage any snatch blocks, shackles, and rigging you may have used, and roll them back up and stow them in your recovery kit. Reengage the clutch and spool your winch line very slowly back onto the drum. When you get within three feet of the fairlead, watch your fingers, so they don’t get caught as the hook makes contact with the fairlead. One last time on the remote should snug your hook to the fairlead and stop it from rattling around. Put your gloves and eyewear back in their spot for the next use.

Getting stuck is no fun, but it can be a great learning experience. Being self-sufficient while you’re in the backcountry includes learning everything you can about recovery techniques so when you do get stuck, you’re ready.

While any of those products will improve the quality and performance of your drive both on and off the trail, spending $5000 or more on suspension components isn’t in everyone’s budget. The simplest thing anyone can do, even with stock suspension, to improve their off-road travels is often overlooked.

Airing down.

I know, it’s not the answer you were hoping for, right?

Airing down (i.e., lowering your tire pressure) to suit trail conditions is the easiest thing you can do to enhance your time off-road. A drop of just 10 pounds per square inch (PSI) from your typical street pressure elongates your tire’s footprint giving you better traction. That’s because more tire is in contact with the trail. More tire on the trail causes less slippage – and less trail destruction and erosion as a result.  Running lower PSI can also take the jolt out of washboard roads, saving your vehicle from costly repairs over time and your back from costly chiropractor appointments when you get back home.

You can find recommended tire pressures in your owner’s manual or on the door placard on the inside of the driver’s side door of your vehicle. Though overlanders running heavier vehicles will often run with a higher PSI than recommended.

Typical highway/ street PSI is anywhere from 35 to 37, so a ten PSI decrease equates to a 30 percent decrease in overall tire pressure — and that is just a starting point. I often run my tires at 15 to 20 PSI while I’m out on the trail, depending on the conditions. Obviously, you shouldn’t be thinking about lowering your tire pressure if you don’t have a way to re-inflate your tires once you get back to the tarmac. Rolling with low pressure at highway speeds so you can get to a gas station to air back up is dangerous and should never be attempted.

What is the best way to deflate and inflate your tires?

There is no “one way” to inflate and deflate your tires. Of course, there are tons of nifty gadgets to make airing down and airing up a breeze. I thought I’d go over a few of these to help you find something that fits your budget.

Tire Deflation

Rugged Ridge Adjustable Tire Deflator Kit

The least expensive options for deflating your tires are screw-on deflators like the Rugged Ridge Adjustable Tire Deflator Kit. These adjustable tire deflators simply screw onto the valve stem and contain a pin that depresses the valve core allowing air pressure to escape. Simply set your target PSI on the bezel and screw them onto your valve stems, and go make some coffee. The deflator will release air until it reaches your set PSI, and then it will stop. No worries!

MSRP: $49.99

ARB E-Z Deflator Kit

For those who want to focus on one tire at a time, you can go with the ARB E-Z Deflator Kit. This system permits the valve core to be removed to deflate the tire at an amplified speed. The gauge features a protective rubber guard with an accurate, easy-to-read dial. The ARB E-Z Deflator Kit makes the deflation process dead simple.

MSRP: $54.00

 Indeflate Four Hose Unit

People looking for something a little more automatic might want to consider the two or four-hose Indeflate system. This system allows you to deflate two or four tires simultaneously (it also allows you to air up two or four tires simultaneously too). Indeflate is mil-spec anodized and constructed from CNC-machined aluminum. Simply slide the patented dump valve to deflate your tires, and keep an eye on the 100 PSI gauge. Indeflate equalizes the pressures of the connected tires and makes quick work of inflating them back to standard pressures.

MSRP: $169.99 for Two Hose Unit / $199.99 for Four Hose Unit

Tire Inflation

There are a lot of tire inflation products on the market. Real talk for a minute, skip the 12V units in the $20 – $75 price range that plug into your 12V outlet. They’re a headache, and they just don’t have the power to inflate large tires. I mean, you can do it. You just shouldn’t do it. It will take forever. The sun is hot. You will get hangry. Bad things will be said that you can’t take back. Instead, invest in one of the following:

 VIAIR 300P Portable Air Compressor

The VIAIR 300P Portable Air Compressor is a small but reliable portable compressor that is able to fill 33-inch tires from 15 to 30 PSI in about three minutes. Just attach the battery clamps to your starter or house battery (if you’re using your starter battery, leave your engine running) and use the included 25-foot coiled hose to reach each tire. This is a great solution for those that don’t want to hard wire a compressor into their electrical system. An added bonus is that you can move this compressor from vehicle to vehicle with ease.

MSRP: $218.95

 ARB On-Board Twin High Performance 12 Volt Air Compressor

The ARB On-board Air Compressor, either the single or the twin, sets the standard for on-board air. I’ve been using my twin compressor for ten years, and it is a workhorse. Coupled with the Indeflate system I mentioned above, this will give you many years of service, and it will make it extremely easy to air up.

MSRP: $616.00

Whatever product you choose, just make sure you pick a system that will make things easier for you. You don’t have to spend thousands of dollars on a whole system, but when you think of how much you will be airing up and down, you’ll want something that makes it a better experience.

Today’s overlander has tons of gadgets and devices to make backcountry travel both safer and easier. From GPS devices, tablets, and phones for navigation, to 12v refrigerators for provisions, cameras, and drones for trip documentation, computers, and Starlink internet for work, and camp lighting for ambiance, the one thing you’re almost always in need of while in the backcountry is power for your gear.

To generate that power, you can do one (or more) of a few things; you can idle your engine to recharge your house batteries off the alternator – though that decreases your range and fills your campsite with exhaust. You can carry a gasoline-powered generator (and the necessary fuel), but that is heavy and smelly, and the sound of a generator in the backcountry is one of the worst sounds I’ve ever heard. One can also pre-charge a battery bank at home for use while they’re off the grid. If generators and battery banks are more your speed, I’d highly recommend our Editor’s Choice article on the best Overland Generators, which I’ve linked below.

How To Solar Power Your Overland Journey

For those looking for a longer-term solution to generate, manage, and store electricity while on your overland journeys, you’ve probably already contemplated designing a solar power system for your rig so the sun can power your adventures. Admittedly, getting educated about solar products is a long and arduous process, but I’m hoping to make it a bit easier for you, so let’s dive in.

Solar System Components

All solar power systems can be broken down into three components; photovoltaic solar panels – which capture the sun’s rays, a charge controller – which converts and directs electrical current to make it useful, and batteries – which stores excess current for later use. All of these pieces are connected via a wiring system. Let’s take a look at each of these components.

Solar panels are rated by power output and efficiency. Output is rated in watts – with most falling in the range of 60 watts to 200 watts. You’ll want to know a couple of things before choosing the wattage necessary for your energy needs; How much energy (measured in amps) do you use on average each day? Factor in everything that draws power on your rig – from your phone to your fridge. How many hours of sunlight can you expect daily? If you’re traveling in the winter or in shaded forests, your efficiency is severely limited. Lastly, you’ll need to know how much battery storage you will have.

For example, phone chargers (on average) consume 5 watts per charge, and 12V fridges consume about 40 watts per hour. Look up everything you plan to power and check for wattage needs. If the power needs are listed in amps, you can easily figure out wattage by using the following equation; Watts = Amps x Volts. Say you plan to charge your phone twice per day (10 Watts), your laptop (100 Watts), your fridge (40 Watts x 12 hours at camp = 480 Watts), and 60 Watt camp lights x 5 hours = 300 Watts for a total of around 900 Watts. You would need around 500 Watts of storage and a 200W solar panel to generate enough current to charge those devices.

Solar Panels

Solar Panels can come in a couple of configurations, either a soft panel that is flexible and can be folded or a rigid panel that doesn’t bend. Rigid solar panels take up more space in your overland vehicle and are prone to breakage; alternatively, they can be affixed to hard surfaces (like your rooftop tent or roof rack) to stay out of the way. Soft panels, on the other hand, can be folded and stored in drawer systems or even affixed to hard surfaces like your hard shell rooftop tent.

Let’s take a look at a couple of panels that we think would be a great starting point for your needs:

REDARC 200W Monocrystalline Solar Panel

This rigid, fixed installation 200W solar panel from REDARC features a tempered glass coating and sturdy aluminum frame to withstand harsh offroad tracks and extreme weather conditions. This REDARC solar panel includes MC4-style connectors and can be used with any REDARC charge controller or other existing solar regulator and solar accessory products.

MSRP: $587.00

EcoFlow 160W Portable Solar Panel

The EcoFlow 160W Solar Panel is foldable and includes a carry case (which also doubles as a kickstand to position your panel in the sunlight.) The panel is IP67-rated for water and dust resistance for longevity in the field. This portable, foldable, compact solar panel weighs just 15.4 pounds and stows easily in your rig.

MSRP: $449.00

Solar Charge Controllers

The next step in your solar journey is choosing a charge controller. The charge controller manages where the electrical current goes and is situated as a hub between your solar panel and storage or battery. Newer charge controllers have a DC to DC option, which acts as the hub between your panel and battery, but also between your alternator and battery while you have your engine running. For our uses as overlanders, I can’t imagine recommending any charge controller that isn’t also DC to DC.

Charge controllers vary in size based on the amount of energy they manage. The more energy, the larger the charge controller will be physically. They often have fans and heat dissipation fins to offload the excess energy.

There are many charge controllers on the market, but the one we’ve used in the last two Overland Expo Ultimate Overland Vehicle Builds is the REDARC Manager30.

REDARC Manager30

The REDARC Manager30 is a battery management system featuring a color display and mobile phone connectivity for complete battery management for charging auxiliary batteries used in overland vehicles. The dual battery system incorporates AC, DC and solar inputs to achieve the best charge for an auxiliary battery. This 30amp charger is the complete battery management system that gives you the best of both worlds. Whether you’re free camping or on a powered site, it knows how to take charge and keep auxiliary batteries fully charged.

MSRP: $1752.00

Zamp Solar 20 Amp Solar Charge Controller

Zamp Solar’s PT20 Solar Charge Controller automatically controls solar charging power to protect AGM, Gel, Wet, and Lithium batteries. The ultra-rugged ‘all-weather’ unit comes with a temperature sensor, a pre-terminated weather-resistant ATP battery connection, and a pre-terminated weather-resistant ATP solar input adapter.

MSRP: $199.99

Solar Batteries

There are a few options for a battery bank to collect and store the energy you harness from the sun. The first is the traditional lead-based AGM battery. Due to weight, lead acid batteries are falling out of favor in most builds, with lithium-ion batteries taking their place. A lithium-ion battery is about 50-pounds lighter than a traditional lead-based AGM. Less weight is a key factor in overland builds, so I’d recommend a lithium-ion (L-ion) battery for energy storage like the new OPTIMA Lithium Batteries shown below.

Another option for energy storage is a portable Lithium-ion battery that you can remove from your rig and move around your campsite. Products like Dometic’s PLB-40 or EcoFlow’s DELTA mini Portable Power Station or DELTA Max Portable are solid bets for your needs.

Dometic PLB40 Portable Lithium Battery

Have power on the go with this Dometic PLB40 Portable Lithium Battery. This portable power pack, with three-way charge, is designed to power coolers and other 12V appliances off the grid.

MSRP: $849.99

EcoFlow DELTA Max Portable Power Station

With super fast recharging capabilities (3.2-6.3 hours via solar panels, and 1.8-hours connected to shore power, the EcoFlow DELTA Max Portable Power Station connects to up to two, 400W EcoFlow Solar Panels. In this setup, the DELTA Max acts as a charge controller AND battery, so you can omit the charge controller option shown above.

MSRP: $1899.00

Learn More About Solar Power with Sean Michael

Are you curious about how to harness the sun’s power to charge your devices and power your basecamp on an overlanding trip? In the video below from Virtual Overland Expo Summer in 2020, “The Gear Doctor” Sean Michael provides an overview of key considerations when creating a solar power system that’s appropriate for your individual travel needs and get you started on choosing an effective system so the sun can power your adventures.

There are many ways to finance overland travel, from using retirement funds, selling everything you own and hitting the road, working full time and saving money, becoming a digital nomad, or simply keeping your 9-5 and going out on weekends, holidays, and vacations. One way of financing your overland travels isn’t any better or worse than the other – and you’ll find that you may jump categories over the course of your lifetime.

Let’s take an in-depth look at these categories and also explore some of the challenges that come with that type of travel.

The Retiree Overlander: Cash It In and Hit the Road

The retirement traveler is a person or couple who are cashing in on a lump sum of money, an excellent example being a retirement plan that has finally matured enough to quit working. The more you save for retirement while you’re working, the more leeway you’ll have to budget some of that money for a vehicle or travel spending. This is probably the most popular way to fund your overland travels.

The retirement model can be very appealing because most financial advisors will help you plan your retirement in a way that will allow you to maintain your quality of life as it was when you were working. When you decide to hit the road full-time in a vehicle, many of those costs don’t exist, or they are much lower, and you can have a large amount of financial buffer to allow you to live comfortably.

Waiting until retirement to travel extensively is problematic because you’ll likely be waiting for a very long time – well into your 60s or early-70s to begin experiencing the world of vehicle based travel. Overland travel can be taxing, even grueling at times, and an older person may not be able to do the same things that they could do in their 30s or 40s.

Tips for the Retiree Overlander

If traveling with a spouse or partner, communication is key. You have been working for 40 or more years, maybe raising a family at the same time, effective communication could be a little bit different when you begin living in a small space together, every second of every day. Give yourself some time to adjust to life on the road, and make sure to stay sharp physically with regular exercise and mentally with hobbies and trip planning.

Don’t be afraid to pick up extra work that coincides with your travel plans. If you had planned on exploring a region for a few months, look into becoming a camp host at a campground near where you want to explore. Housesitting is another great option for long-term travelers that want to spend longer stretches in a single city before moving on.

The Liquidator Overlander: Sell it All and Hit the Road

The “Liquidator” type sells everything, rents out their property, and hits the road full-time. Liquidators seem to get the most attention at Overland Expo events as they are “living the dream” that most of us want to live – or at least the dream we think we want to live. From the exterior, it looks like the Liquidators live a carefree existence by eliminating the possessions that hold them down.

While that can be true, the Liquidator is also committed to this style of travel for an extended period of time – whether they want to continue it or not. Once you quit your job and hand over the keys to your house, condo, or apartment, turning back is not really an option. It will take as much (if not more) work to get established again, find employment, and a place to live.

A major advantage of traveling full time on a big chunk of money is that you don’t need to work while you travel. The freedom to explore an area without the need to focus on emails, phone calls, or other work responsibilities is very rewarding. You can visit attractions on Monday morning when the tourists have left, enjoy blissfully quiet campsites, and generally experience towns and cities as locals do.

Tips for the Liquidator Overlander

Sell everything that you won’t need while traveling or that you won’t need to start over when/if you return to a normal life. Consider renting a small storage unit or borrowing space in someone’s garage or basement to store essential possessions that you can use to get back on your feet quicker when your travels are complete.

Make decisions early about the clothes, gear, and possession you want to keep – don’t hold that off until the last minute or you might end up needing to pull a trailer to store everything you want to keep. When you’re beginning the process of selling your things, look at your possessions as money to be used for the trip. If you save that item, great, but if you sell it, how long can you travel?

The Pennysaver Overlander: Frugality Gets You Everywhere

A pennysaver is a successful overlander, more times than not. Pennysavers focus on working for an extended period of time and saving as much as they can, then loading up for several months or years and living off their savings. This method is extremely common with those that are able to work seasonally or perform contract work that doesn’t continue all year. If you are the type of person that is able to save money and live frugally, you will be well-prepared for an extended overland journey.

Saving pennies to be able to afford a future trip is effective but can be challenging in its own way. When you begin saving, you will feel like you are missing out on living your life where you are, and sometimes that is difficult. A proper balance of expectations while sacrificing present happiness for future adventures is extremely important. Once you are able to afford to leave for your trip, the countdown begins on the amount of time you have on the road before you need to settle down again and save more money.

Tips for the Pennysaver Overlander

Create a separate bank account for your travel fund. By setting up a direct deposit of money into your account after you pay your bills, you prevent future-you from spending that money.

Research other overlanders’ budgets, and you should be able to get a good idea of how much you will need to save for the amount of time you want to spend traveling.

Once on the road, track your expenses daily using a journal or application on your phone. Looking back on some days, once we got into the groove of traveling, we spent close to nothing. Other days we would have huge expenses like a head gasket repair. Keeping track of expenses while traveling allows you to keep yourself in check mentally as you consider new purchases.

The Weekend Overlander: Get Out When You Can

The most common of all overland travelers is the Weekend Overlander, for obvious reasons. A “Weekend Overlander” is typically a term used for someone who works a regular job during the week and uses the weekend and their vacation each year to be outside and explore the world around them.

There are many reasons why travelers gravitate to part-time exploring, but most do it because it allows them to enjoy the comforts of normal life and still spend time traveling to new places each year. Exploring on the weekends and a couple of weeks each year is a great way to hone your skills, learn the ins and outs of your vehicle and camp setup, and expose your family and friends to the hobby without taking them around the globe. By having a home-base to live and work from, Weekenders can maintain jobs that allow for travel on days off from work and have a place to store, repair, and modify their vehicles. Having a garage to perform routine maintenance and repairs is like gold to a full-time traveler.

Weekenders are often challenged by the amount of time they have to explore. For someone living in the western U.S., it is easy to do weekend trips to the mountains, the desert, or the ocean and get back in time for work on Monday morning. But for those living a great distance from popular places to explore, an entire weekend can be wasted on the highways getting to and from your destination.

Another limiting factor to traveling on weekends and holidays is that a big majority of the rest of the population is traveling at the same time. National Parks, campsites, and other attractions are more crowded on the weekends and holidays and accessibility can be very challenging.

Tips for the Weekend Overlander

If this is the way you can experience the wonders of overland travel, then embrace it. Just because you can only get out for the weekend doesn’t mean you can’t have great experiences. Focus on trips closer to home so you don’t have to drive as far. Learn the ins and outs of a favorite state park, a desert camp, or a mountain stream.

Likewise, focus your trips outside of weekend holidays or popular times in areas. Avoiding the mountains in the middle of June will yield less crowds. Your overland rig will allow you the opportunity to disperse camp just outside of state and national park borders, but still allow you to visit those places, even in crowded times.

The Digital Nomad Overlander: Work from Anywhere

One of the most highly coveted ways to pay for overland travel is the ability to work from anywhere and simply move your office when you get tired of the view. The Digital Nomad is often a business owner, has passive income, or has a web-based job that allows for travel as long as Wi-Fi is available nearby. With the coming of solid, satellite internet services like Starlink, Digital Nomads have more possibility than ever before to get their work completed on the road.

Many see the opportunities available on platforms like social media and YouTube as an easy way to make money on the road while documenting your travels along the way. A handful of travelers have been able to produce quality content while traveling with weekly videos, blogs, and stories written for online publications, and product review and promotion work. Although it is possible, many content creators will caution that creating compelling content is not all it is cracked up to be.

Tips for the Digital Nomad Overlander

When considering writing articles for publication or producing YouTube episodes, remember that you will likely end up working 40-60 hours per week for a lot less money than you made before.

Plan your travels around Wi-Fi availability. Many travelers are able to still do their full-time jobs as coders or business owners, they simply need Wi-Fi to stay connected. Plan to be off the grid on weekends and land back at solid a Wi-Fi connection during the week.

While we highlighted five types of overlanders in this article, in reality, most overlanders are a combination of two or more of these types. However you travel, it is more important to get out there and experience the world than it is to put yourself into any one type. Go enjoy this amazing planet!

Some of my earliest overland adventures were in a friend’s bone-stock JK Jeep. Water crossings, remote campsites, and long miles made for plenty of adventure. We navigated by map, had to turn around plenty of times because our recovery gear was limited to a shovel and come-along, and we used a ground tent that took forever to set up and break down. The most shocking part of this whole situation? We rarely took any photos of the Jeep. 

When I started shopping for my own backcountry-worthy rig, it took months to track down the truck I had my eye on. I finally found a four-wheel drive double cab first generation Tacoma with a rear locker. Over the next seven years, the Tacoma went through many different phases. For a while, I just had a second-hand fiberglass camper shell on the bed so that I could toss in a tent, a few milk crates, and a camp stove. Then I got a rooftop tent, and I built a DIY drawer system for more organization and easy access to gear. A few years later, I was fortunate to test out a wedge-style camper, so I built out the interior of the bed with a subfloor, a fridge, and some built-in storage. 

Even considering the addition of a lift, a bull bar, a snorkel, and sliders, the Tacoma was a budget rig that carried me over countless miles of trails. After seven years and hundreds of thousands of miles, it was time to move on, and I traded it in for $1,000 less than I had paid for it. 

It can be argued that even those two examples are “more” vehicle than you need to overland, but examples had enough capability to tackle some rougher trails, and to get us out of trouble if we were traveling solo. If you plan to stick to forest roads and mild trails you can get by with less ground clearance

The Vehicle

So obviously, you need a vehicle of some sort to start your overlanding adventure. Unfortunately, we live in the days when many classic four-wheel drive vehicles are fetching incredible prices. However, that doesn’t mean there aren’t deals to be had. You can take a look at mid-sized trucks and SUVs that have a few years on them, and of course, we’re in full support of hitting the trail in a Subaru, or even a two-wheel drive. 

Depending on your vehicle choice, you can most likely leave your build stock for a bit. Throw a ground tent and cooler in the back and take it out on some easy trails and determine your needs from there. There’s no need to outfit your vehicle with armor, bumpers, and winches if your plan is simply to get out onto some graded dirt roads for some backcountry camping. Save that money for a new mountain bike, fly fishing gear, or a standup paddleboard. Just make sure you leave your travel plans with someone at home and have an emergency kit in your vehicle. 

When you’re ready to begin outfitting your vehicle, choose the modifications that make sense for your style of travel first. 

• Don’t have enough ground clearance on the trails you frequent? A suspension system and tires will get you a long way for a small investment. 
• Do you find yourself getting stuck and needing to wait for others to rescue you? Invest in a winch and winch bumper. 
• Do your aching bones in the morning cause you to hate your ground tent? Look into a rooftop tent with a nice, padded mattress. 
• Are you sick of waterlogged food or tired of looking for ice for your cooler? You might consider a 12v fridge/freezer.

What I’m trying to say is you should build out your vehicle at your own pace. Everything doesn’t have to be completed at the same time. Thoughtful mods that reflect how you use your vehicle are way more useful than haphazard choices that end up costing you more money in the long run.

The other half of budgeting for overlanding is your daily travel expenses. Whether you’re going out for three days or three years, food, communications, fuel, accommodation, fees, and vehicle maintenance and repairs are the main budgeting categories you should consider.

Accommodations

While my preferred campsite is a free dispersed spot in a quiet part of a national forest or Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land, that isn’t always available. Sometimes you need to be closer to civilization or the dispersed sites are available in limited numbers. 

Unfortunately, many of those options can be a costly endeavor. Check out alternative methods like hostels, Airbnb, or Hipcamp. Personally, I’ve found some great campsites on Hipcamp when the national forest and organized campgrounds were full. Airbnb can be hit or miss in terms of deals, but it’s still worth checking out. Of course, hostels are still a great option for when you’re just looking for a bed and shower without breaking the bank. 

Food

Buying your own groceries at a local market and making your own food is the least expensive way to eat while you’re on the road. Street food in other countries is a viable and delicious alternative and is often quite inexpensive. But if you’re plunking down $25 or more at each brewery you pass for a burger and a couple of beers, that is going to add up fast.

Communications

A mobile network plan with enough data to allow you to work on the road is going to run you at least $150.00 a month. Adding an international plan will allow you to make calls but doesn’t usually cover your data. So, be aware of that when planning your budget. Using Wi-Fi in a restaurant, organized campground, RV park, or from a hotel might be your only choice in some matters — especially in the rural U.S. or Latin America.

Entertainment

What is the point of travel if you don’t have fun along the way? Be sure to budget for pricey items like national park entrance fees, museums, movies, tours, and special events. Keep an eye on social media for community events. You never know when you’ll be near a free concert, a street fair, or some other opportunity to dive into local culture. 

Fuel, Maintenance, and Repairs

Fuel will be the single largest budget item of your trip. The faster you move, the more prone you are to needing maintenance and repairs. Slowing your pace is often the easiest way to save money in this category when you’re on the road. Knowing general maintenance, like how to do your own oil changes, tire rotation, and checking fluid levels, will save you a ton of money too. 

While it’s easy to set high mileage goals for each day, slowing down not only burns less fuel, it also allows time to find cheaper places to camp, cook you’re own food, and inspect your rig for any potential issues that might become costly repairs. Traveling slowly will help your bottom line in the long run, and slowing down allows you to be a traveler and not simply a tourist.

Overlanding is accessible to everyone, not just those who have the cash to outfit an expensive vehicle. Save your money by only modifying your vehicle if you really need it, and savor the experience of tracking down routes and destinations that are suitable to your rig. No matter if you’re driving a two-wheel drive with a cooler and camp stove through the nearest National Forest or a lifted and outfitted four-wheel drive through a country on the other side of the globe, you can have a great overland adventure.

A cold beer around the campfire can certainly be delicious after a rugged ride, but transporting beer and keeping it cold has its own set of challenges. Like all things overlanding, a bit of preparation goes a long way, so here are some suggestions to take your off-road beer game from gas station swill to Campsite Cicerone in no time flat. So, drop your kickstand, chock your tires, and kick back in camp with these tips to amp up your overland beer game.

Choose Cans When You Can

When you’re planning your beer menu for overlanding, choose cans over bottles. Beyond being space efficient and crushable for easy recycling, cans are superior for preserving the flavor of your beer. Hops are light-sensitive and light-struck beer (yes, that’s a technical term) is prone to skunking. Skunking, also a technical term, refers to the pungent smell that hop-derived photosensitive compounds in beer emit when exposed to light. In addition to preventing beer from being light-struck, cans are air-tight, which minimizes oxidation. Oxidized beer is stale beer, and you definitely don’t want to drink stale beer when you’re kicking back in the campsite of your dreams!

Just Chill with a Powered Cooler

If your truck has a powered cooler and you have plenty of space, transporting beer is easy. Don’t worry about keeping your entire beer stash cold for the duration of your trip. Contrary to popular belief, beer can be stored at room temperature for multiple days without any degradation to the flavor. According to the Brewers Association, beer can be stored at temperatures as high as 90°F for up to three days and at room temperature (72°F) for up to 30 days without destroying the deliciousness. 

On the Rocks

If you’re not running a fridge in your rig and are relying on ice to keep your chill on, a properly prepared cooler leads to better beverage storage for the duration of your trip. Before you pack for your adventure, pre-chill your cooler overnight with blocks of ice to lower the temperature of the insulation. When it comes time to load up for the trip, only stock the cooler with cold provisions so you’re not forcing the ice to work overtime to cool things down.

Keep your ice-to-supplies ratio in mind. All too often, when we pack our coolers for a trip, we fill them to the brim with food and beer. However, according to Canyon Coolers, the best ratio of ice to beverages is 2:1, meaning two-thirds of your cooler should be filled with ice and a third with brews and perishables. The 2:1 ratio will yield long-lasting ice and properly chilled provisions for the duration of your trip.

Use Your Ice Twice

Ideally, your cooler will yield clean, potable water as the ice melts. One of the best ways to do this is to travel with separate coolers for your food and beer. The beer cooler, if packed well, can yield clean ice, freshwater, and cold beverages for a week or more. Start by cleaning your cooler and anything going inside of it with a food-grade sanitizer. As the ice melts during your daily adventures, drain the water to use for cooking and coffee or, if you haven’t put your grubby hands in there too many times, fill your water bottle for frosty sipping.  

Beer Mixology Recipe #2: 

Beer Paloma

Often attributed to a fabled pamphlet Popular Cocktails of the Rio Grande, the Paloma is a staple in my Off-Road Mixology repertoire. In this cerveza-infused spinoff of the classic, I replace the soda with beer and fresh grapefruit juice, so the citrus takes center stage. The salted rim on this cocktail is one of my favorite parts, and if you’re feeling spicy, try Tajin (a chili, lime, salt mix) for an extra kick!

– 6 ounces light beer
– 3 ounces fresh grapefruit juice
– 1 ounce reposado tequila
– Salt or Tajin for the rim

Rim your glass with salt or Tajin, then add the juice and tequila. Fill with ice and pour in the beer. Give your Paloma a gentle stir, then sip and enjoy!

Cold Beer For Adventure Motorcycling 

I wish I had some secret scientific method for chilling beer on an adventure motorcycle ride. However, when riding, space is super-limited, and we rarely travel with ice or coolers on the bike. Therefore, an insulated bottle will be your beer’s best friend après adventure riding. 

A 24-ounce insulated bottle holds exactly two standard cans, so when you hit the last gas station at the end of the day, prior to heading to camp, buy a couple of beers and fill your bottle with beer to the brim. You’ll want the beer to overflow just slightly as you’re capping the bottle, which is essential to avoid air space. Leaving air in the insulated bottle lets the beer slosh around and will lead to a foamy mess in your pannier. Plus, the beer won’t stay as cold if it’s less than brimming because of the aforementioned air space situation.

Though I don’t have any science to back me up here, when I fill a 24-ounce Hydro Flask with two beers and open it hours later at camp, it’s about as darn cold as when it came out of the fridge. I suggest Hydro Flask because that’s what I happen to own, but there are lots of other high-quality insulated bottles out there. 

Beer Mixology Recipe #3:

Michelada

No beer cocktail list would be complete without a Michelada. This classic Mexican combination of tomato juice and beer makes a great after-ride appetizer, as the tomato juice adds a heartiness that drinks like a snack. Make your Michelada with any light beer, or try Negra Modelo for an earthier version. I like to turn up the salt and umami flavor with an extra dose of soy sauce. 

– 12 ounces light beer or dark lager like Negra Modelo
– 2 ounces tomato juice
– 1 ounce fresh lime juice
– ½ ounce hot sauce, more to taste
– ¼ ounce Worcestershire sauce
– Soy sauce to taste
– Salt or Tajin for the rim
– Lime wedges to garnish (optional)

Rim the glass with salt or Tajin and fill it with ice. Pour in the tomato juice, lime juice, hot sauce, Worcestershire, and soy sauce. Give it a gentle stir and garnish with lime wedges. Salud!

Choose your Brews

Of course, you can grab whatever brew you find at the gas station on an overland trip. However, if you happen across a town with a groovy microbrewery scene, it’s always a good idea to swing by a local brewery to stock up for camp. Plus, it’s awesome to support the little guys rather than just pouring another PBR down your throat. Local brews certainly speak to the flavor of a place, and aren’t local flavors at the essence of overlanding? 

Your campsite beer is much like a great meal, shared with friends, cooked under the stars. The whole is greater than the sum of the parts. So, whether you’re crushing a frosty Miller Lite or sipping a swanky Michelada, the experience of your environment can make just about any overland brew in camp taste amazing.

I recently had my first experience piloting a full-size truck with our 2022 Ultimate Overland Vehicle, a GMC Sierra 1500 AT4X and I have to admit that even though I was a bit overwhelmed with the size and power of the truck at first, I was a quick convert after I got a few miles under my belt both on- and off-road.  

For years, most overlanders (myself included) would only consider a mid-sized truck for backcountry travel. To be fair, most of that choice had to do with gas mileage and capability. However, new full-size trucks are far more capable than their predecessors and most of them boast even better gas mileage and payload than their mid-sized counterparts – especially loaded down with all of the overlanding accoutrements like a rooftop tent, camping gear, and/or slide-in campers.

Why Consider a Full-Size Overland Rig?

For those that are unfamiliar, OEMs put the most research and development budget into their full-size lines and the product they’re presenting is the best-of-the-best. Full-size trucks are often more comfortable – key for longer trips, they have greater towing capacity, they boast larger payloads, and they are super-capable in the dirt. You can buy a full-size truck in a staggering amount of trim packages, so you’re sure to find something that fits your needs, budget, and style. Plus, they retain their value when you go to resell.

Let’s go over some of the reasons to consider a full size truck for overlanding – to help you decide which way to go when purchasing your next overland rig.

Overlanding in a Full-Size Truck

Comfort:

Comfort might be the most important factor in making the choice to go for a full-size truck, and it is incredible how comfortable they are nowadays. There’s no more kidney-rattling, lumbar-compressing rides found in some earlier full-size trucks, now replaced by the plush, supportive seating with integrated heat, massage, and even air-conditioning. Yes, air-conditioned seats. I scoffed, too, but let me tell you how nice it was to travel through 100-plus degree terrain and not stick to the seat.

While seating is important, much of the overall comfort of a full-size truck is credited to an expansive cockpit that puts all of the controls and heads-up displays within easy reach. On our trip in the AT4X, my wife Astrid and I remarked at how spacious the truck cabin felt. We each had enough room to stretch out and enjoy the drive.

We can’t forget the suspension choice either in relation to overall comfort. In the more expensive trim levels of most full size trucks, you’ll be treated to the smoothness of high-end suspension – like the Multimatic DSSV suspension system on the AT4X. For lower trim levels, you may want to consider a full suspension replacement to provide the highest level of comfort for your new rig.

Power:

If you’re looking for raw power, look no further than a full-size truck. But here’s where you’ll need to make another choice: Do you want a gas or diesel engine? 

A diesel engine will offer more torque for off-road driving and towing – the higher miles-per-gallon doesn’t hurt either. While a gas-powered engine will provide higher horsepower and quicker acceleration. This is an important distinction because, as overlanders, you’re putting in massive highway miles to get to your favorite off-road destination. However, you need your truck to be capable in the backcountry, too. 

Diesel engines weigh more than a gas engine. With all of that extra weight over the front axle, you’ll notice a difference when crawling over obstacles, traversing through sand, or driving through mud. A gas-powered engine will need to work a bit harder on the highway, but will often crawl through terrain easier. 

Whether you go gas or diesel, it takes a little bit of getting used to having this much power both on- and off-road. On the highway, you should see plenty of power cruising up hills and through turns. Off-road, you’ll be amazed that the throttle needs barely a feather touch to get enough power to tackle any terrain. With just a little time spent crawling over trail obstacles, it should be easy to learn the light touch necessary to pilot the full-size beast effectively.

Payload:

A full-size truck will almost always have an increased payload capacity over a mid-size truck. More payload will allow you to carry more things with you in the bed, or enable you to add a slide in camper for a more comfortable camping experience. But just because you can basically bolt anything that you want on a full-size truck, should you? You’ll need to take into account braking, handling, and aerodynamics to make sure your drive remains comfortable and safe.

If towing a large off-road trailer or a flatbed trailer is your game, full-size trucks can pull an impressive amount of weight, so dragging along an all-terrain trailer shouldn’t be an issue. It should be said that ¾-ton and one-ton trucks have a far greater towing capacity, but the stiff suspensions required to pull heavy loads are not the same type of suspensions necessary for off-road travel. It is important to plan your build accordingly.

Vehicle Width and Wheelbase:

Being aware of the overall width and length of a full-size truck takes some getting used to as well.  Tight trails with encroaching vegetation (like the kind found where I live in the PNW) are probably the most difficult to navigate without creating some natural pin-striping. Will it stop you from enjoying an overgrown trail? Probably not, but you will need to get out that buffing wheel if you’re one of those folks that need to have a shiny truck. 

Interestingly, mid-sized trucks have grown over the years and aren’t really that much narrower than a full-size truck now. If you take a look at any of the newest generation mid-size trucks, you’ll see widths in the 74-inch to 75-inch range. The GMC Sierra AT4X is only six-inches wider. A full-size truck won’t fit down every trail, but it will fit down most of them. Obviously, I’m not taking a full-size truck over Black Bear Pass anytime soon – or ever.

Another consideration is that full-size trucks have a large wheelbase. The added interior comforts (like legroom) of the crew cab are the very thing that makes driving a long wheelbase truck off-road a challenge. Longer wheelbases decrease your break-over angle, so crawling over boulders or through cross axle obstacles are a little tougher than vehicles with smaller wheelbases. This is not to say it is impossible, but you do need to pick your lines very carefully (or have a great spotter).

Parts and Repairs:

No matter how much you maintain your vehicle, at some point in your journeys, you’re going to have a mechanical issue that needs attention. If you live in the U.S., Canada, or Mexico, this isn’t a problem. That’s because most OEMs have a vast North American dealer network and service and spare parts are readily available. 

If you have a long multi-country overland journey planned or you’re the type to container your vehicle and send it off to distant lands, you might have an issue with service and repairs because the majority of full-size trucks aren’t built on global platforms. Because of that, repair shops in other countries might not have the background to fix your rig.

That said, since Ford, GM, Toyota, and Stellantis (RAM’s parent company) are global firms, most markets should be able to be get parts — albeit slowly.

Fuel Economy:

Full-size trucks have a reputation for being gas-guzzlers. While that might have been the case a decade ago, that couldn’t be farther from the truth these days as most full-size trucks are within a gallon or two of their mid-sized counterparts. 

On the highway, a typical gas-powered full size truck should net you anywhere from 20-24 MPG. This increases significantly with diesel powertrains, which should see between 25-30 MPG. If you put in big miles on your overland journeys, you might want to consider a diesel engine for efficiency.

Remember that there are several factors that play into fuel economy. And with the typical overlander’s penchant to bolt ALL THE THINGS  to their trucks, weight might be the single biggest factor in how much gas mileage you get in a full-size truck. Other causes of decreased fuel economy include larger wheels and tires, what you tow with the vehicle, and how often you’re running in four wheel drive.

Price:

The prices of full-size trucks are not insignificant. Starting prices of fairly stock full-size truck range anywhere from $39,000 to $45,000. When you add in upgraded trim packages that get you more comfortable seating, Improved suspension, factory lockers, and more, you’re looking at a price tag of $60,000 to $75,000 – or more.

Buying a full-size truck is already an investment, so make sure you have a plan for your build well before starting your order. If you plan to lift it, replace the stock suspension, add bumpers and armor and buy bigger tires, do you really need all the bells and whistles? Maybe a stock truck with some aftermarket options is a better use of your money?

Overall:

There are so many things to consider when you’re thinking about building a full-size truck for overlanding. While I tried to outline the seven most important factors that I think you need to take into account before beginning your build, you may have other elements that you need to consider to make your vehicle your own. 

That’s the joy of deciding on an overland vehicle to buy. It has to meet your needs for the type of travel that you do. I hope this was a good starting point for you to get the ball rolling.

Personally, I enjoyed my first journey in a full-size truck. So much so, that I’m actually planning my own build. I hope to see you out on the trails in your full-size overland rig.

My first big off-pavement ride on my new-to-me adventure bike was a baptism by fire. Invited by my buddy, Dave, an experienced off-road rider, to explore eastern Oregon’s uninhabited regions via tiny, barely-there dirt roads, I was faced with riding on loose gravel and through deep ruts littered with sand, silt and buried rocks — all while battling to see through choking dust.

Sure, I’d been riding street bikes for decades, but I quickly discovered that didn’t give me an advantage in the loose stuff. An hour into the ride I was physically exhausted — and we had many more hours of riding ahead, with no escape route to a smooth highway anywhere close by. My friend and capable tour guide, Dave, was in better physical shape than I was, and he had been riding the narrow jeep trails and cow paths on a regular basis for decades. But it was all new to me — and absolutely overwhelming.

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

How I survived that first ride and stayed upright on my new (used) bike, which was similarly unprepared for the challenges, I’ll never quite figure out, but as is often said, experience is a great teacher. Lucky for me, so is Dave and the small squad of guys I ride with. They gave me some tips to try and bring me up to speed. Today, I’m still the slowest of the bunch, but on balance I can hold my own off-road and I look forward to pointing a capable motorcycle off the pavement and towards parts unknown, secure in my basic skills – but always ready to learn more.

Recently, I put those skills to the test as I piloted Overland Expo’s Ultimate Overland Motorcycle 2022, a 2022 Yamaha Ténéré 700.

Overland Expo slathered the popular T7 top to bottom in goodies including taller Tractive Suspension forks and shock, Mosko Moto racks and bags, LED aux lights from Ruby and much, much more. But even a bike made over with top-shelf gear is useless without the skills to keep it upright and moving when the pavement ends. Here are some things I’ve learned to do (often the hard way) over the years when the off-road fun begins.

Street Riding Skills Do Not Work in the Dirt

As noted, much of what street riding relies on for safety and control, including counter-steering, heavy front brake use and leaning, can spell disaster in the dirt. Grab a handful of front brakes setting up a corner in the dirt? Down you go. Follow the race line through that gravel-filled corner? Helmet meets dirt. Lean in through that forest road sweeper? You’re gonna be in the forest. Riding safely in the dirt and other low-traction environments on a bike like the Ténéré 700 — or any off-road motorcycle — is all about balance, fine braking control and speed control.

Watching pro riders go incredibly fast on TV in the sand and the dirt makes it look easy. But that’s why they’re pro’s: They’ve built that speed on a base set of dirt riding skills almost completely removed from street riding. While you don’t need to unlearn your street riding skills, but you do need to be open minded about not using them while off-roading and adding some dirt riding techniques to your repertoire if need be.

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

That blend of skills came in very handy as I encountered many rough stretches while piloting the Ténéré 700 through the Colorado Rockies for a week, especially on challenging roads like Cinnamon Pass. I rode on the highway to get near the pass, and once I turned off, the road turned to graded gravel.

As it climbed to a peak of 12,640 feet, the road quickly narrowed, became very steep as well as rutted, rocky and had spots of deep ponded water — all challenges for me and the T7. But some basic dirt riding skills and a highly capable bike got me to the summit and back down again, just so I could wake up nearly freezing to death while camping at 10,000 feet. See Tip No. 4.

Bonus: Dirt riding skills better apply to street riding than visa-versa, especially in low-traction situations (rain, gravel, slick pavement).

Balance: More Complicated than You Think

Street bikes have the advantage of having a lot of grip, so riders can input a lot of control forces through the bars. “Balancing” the bike seems almost secondary — the rotational forces of the wheels turning combined with the bicycle skills you learned as a kid generally keep the bike upright.

But dirt bikes, and adventure bikes like the Ténéré 700, demand a different approach off-road since the level of traction is so low (even with aggressive knobby tires). Trust me: Lean off your big dual-sport on a dirt road turn like a MotoGP racer and you’ll get cozy with the ground in an instant.

Instead, slow down, stay centered on the bike, and stand on the pegs — this isn’t for showing off, it increases your ability to balance. Keep your legs straight (but not locked) and bend forward at the waist until you are essentially over the headlight. Keep your hands very light on the bars and use pressure on the footpegs to gently initiate turns, shifting your weight slightly to the right peg for a right turn, etc.

Let the handlebars turn in your hands while you hold on lightly while maintaining throttle control. Don’t turn the bars with your hands if possible (advanced level: use only your throttle hand to hold the bars). It sounds weird but it works, and it’s a good idea to practice this skill on your bike before heading into the dirt.

As you get more familiar with the technique, you can slowly increase how much you’re turning — to a point. Don’t worry, the bike will tell you what that point is by beginning to slide. To start with, just practice the technique at speeds above 8 miles per hour, and go faster very gradually. Do this enough and it will become muscle memory. That’s the goal.

Braking: Toe the Line

Braking in the dirt (and “dirt” in this article basically means any non-paved surface) is another new skill to learn. If you’ve taught yourself to brake before you turn while street riding, then you’ve got a head start on this portion — but don’t skip ahead. 

Old-tech bikes (like mine) relied on a rider’s practiced control to brake effectively; most new bikes like the Ténéré 700 now come with anti-lock braking systems (ABS) that will work off-road. However, many ADV riders will deactivate it if they can because so far, the computerized brakes don’t “know” what surface you’re on and can brake too little.

Most ADV riders will deactivate the rear wheel ABS (and bike makers do allow for this) while setting the front wheel ABS to minimal effectiveness. Why not off? In general, DOT and Euro regulations do not allow for complete deactivation of front wheel ABS. And the reason experienced riders kill ABS (and often traction controls) for the rear wheel is that they will often help “turn” the bike by skidding or sliding the rear tire in some circumstances. This is known as “steering with the rear tire.”

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Photo by Bill Roberson

Heading up the less-narrow road to 11,482-foot Boreas Pass on the T7, the key thing I had to remember when braking in the dirt is to do all of it — or as much as I could — in a straight line before making a turn or avoiding an obstacle, that way the T7’s Bridgestone’s Battlax Adventurecross AX41 tires could use their whole traction budget in the turn itself. 

There’s more to it of course, but those are the basics of braking in the dirt, and combined with balance, a light touch on the bars and weighting the pegs to initiate turns, you should be able to make your way safely down a dirt road. It certainly made Boreas Pass much more fun to ride.

Speed: Go Slow to Go Fast

At a recent off-road rally, I was the slowest rider in my group of very experienced off-road riders, some of them ex-racers. When I tried to catch up, I overcooked corners, bungled technical sections and laid down the bike. Twice.

Fortunately, neither the bike nor I were hurt. That is, except for my pride. Frustrated, I let them race ahead and focused on minding my balance, braking and body position — all at a much slower pace. Surprise: I actually made better time than when trying to “go fast” because I didn’t have to reduce speed to correct mistakes (or pick up my motorcycle). And slowly but surely, I got a bit faster as I got better at those basics. 

When I talked to ride instructor Jimmy Lewis at the event, he confirmed my suspicions: In the dirt, slowing down and executing basic techniques results in better average speed, even though you may feel you are going slow. As you implement and polish those basic skills, your speed ticks up. “Going fast” may seem to be what motorcycles are all about, but in off-road riding, it’s a foolish goal, even when racing. It’s really all about bike and body control to stay upright.

Ride Prepared

Before any ride, make sure you, your bike and gear are ready for action. Check the oil, the tire pressure, suspension settings (if adjustable) for the load you’re carrying, and make a list of the things you’ll need to bring. Besides your protective gear, that may be your phone, wallet and a hydration pack for a quick dirt ride with friends, or a 100-item list for a journey across international borders.

For my Rockies adventure, the Ténéré 700 was outfitted with spacious Mosko Moto bags, crash bars, GPS, satellite communications, even spare gasoline canisters. It was good to go right from the start. I got cold a couple of times while camping but otherwise was well prepared.

It may seem tangential to riding skills, you will ride more comfortably having peace of mind knowing that you have what you need and know where you’re going. This level of preparation will allow you to focus on riding and not on mental checklists. Running through checklists in your mind while you ride can take away from being in the moment. That’s a problem because even a tiny distraction can create a lapse in attention, which could send you down an embankment or into a vehicle ahead of you. In a car, that’s a minor crash. On a motorcycle, it can be fatal.

So gear up, ride smart, and have fun.

However, we hope that all of our readers, and of course everyone else that recreates in the wilderness, will strive to minimize their impact and, better yet, leave it better than they found it. Below you’ll find some history on the official Leave No Trace principles and how you can apply them to your next overland adventure. 

The idea of “leaving no trace” began in the 1960s as outdoor recreation gained popularity. The federal land management agencies developed brochures with catchy titles such as “Wilderness Manners” and “No-Trace Camping,” full of helpful tips on how to not ruin the wilderness while you’re out recreating. The Leave No Trace nonprofit was incorporated in 1994 with a mission of fostering responsibility and stewardship for the outdoors. 

LNT’s minimum-impact messages are targeted at non-motorized recreational activities, but we overlanders have a separate set of responsibilities because of our vehicles. As soon as you bring a motor into the mix, the potential to cause problems, impact the land, and reduce recreation opportunities increases exponentially.

The Tread Lightly organization promotes outdoor ethics to address the unique impact of motorized recreation. Started as a campaign to address issues from off-road vehicles by the United States Forest Service in 1985, Tread Lightly leads a national initiative to protect and enhance recreation access and opportunities. With an eye on good stewardship, Tread Lightly’s goal is to balance the needs of the people who enjoy outdoor recreation with our need to maintain healthy ecosystems. 

Unfortunately, if you’ve been off-roading or overlanding for any amount of time, you’ve most likely seen what happens when people don’t follow the Leave No Trace and Tread Lightly principles and misuse an area until the governing body shuts it down. It’s happened all over the country, and once a trail or area is shut down, it’s rarely reopened to vehicle travel.  

Pack It In, Pack It Out

One of the most obvious parts of taking care of the wilderness is not leaving anything behind. Of course, you’re not going to throw your cans in the woods or campfire ring, but when it comes to trash, every little thing counts. Be it bacon grease or banana peels. If you brought it in, you need to take it home too.

Micro-trash is one of the biggest offenders in the wilderness. Little bits of trash can virtually disappear when they hit the leaf litter but need packing out as much as the big stuff. Always take a few minutes to scour your campsite before hitting the road in the morning and make sure your trash, plus the trash from the camper before you, is picked up.

Keep a Dedicated Trash Container

There are plenty of options for gathering trash on the trail. Heavy-duty kitchen trash bags will do the job, but it’s best to keep a stronger container to ensure the litter stays contained if it gets jostled around. There are several options on the market for keeping trash on your spare tire. If you decide to keep it inside your rig, look at the Sea to Summit Trash Dry Sack. 

This purpose-built dry sack weighs in at only 3.5 ounces and features a hypalon roll top opening and a daisy chain so it can easily be secured. With such a small packed footprint, there’s no reason you can’t take a trash container like this along. 

Properly Dispose of Human Waste

Whether you’re running a high-tech incinerating toilet or a trusty trowel, dealing with human waste is an increasing problem in the wilderness. Leave No Trace says that “proper disposal of human waste is important to avoid pollution of water sources, avoid the negative implications of someone else finding it, minimize the possibility of spreading disease, and maximize the rate of decomposition.”

The classic cat-hole is the most widely accepted method for human waste disposal in the woods. However, in some particularly sensitive areas and in areas that receive overwhelming numbers of visitors, it’s suggested to once again pack out your waste. 

This process is simplified with equipment like the GO Anywhere Portable Toilet Seat. When used with the GO Anywhere Waste Bags, it provides a sealed bag that’s safe to place in most garbage receptacles once you return to civilization, but check local rules to confirm before doing so. 

Wag Bags

For particularly sensitive wilderness areas or pit stops in a pinch, keeping a wag bag in your rig is a good idea. Cleanwaste’s GO Anywhere Toilet Kits contain a waste bag, puncture-resistant storage bag, toilet paper, and hand sanitizer. The bags neutralize odors and gels up to 32 oz. of liquids and solids for easy removal.

Campfire Safety

Wildfires are no joke. According to Leave No Trace, “Human-sparked fires are the cause of almost 90% of all wildfires in the U.S. and have been shown to burn at more than 2x the rate of those naturally occurring.” That said, a little common sense goes a long way when it comes to minimizing the impacts of fire.

Wherever you’re exploring, make sure to check the local regulations. If a burn ban is in effect, obviously, a campfire is a no-go. That said, even without fire restrictions in place, if you’re in a particularly dry environment, you might want to skip the s’mores and air on the side of safety.

By using a portable fire pit or fire pan, you can minimize the fire scar and the chances of the fire flaring up after the initial burn. The Wolf and Grizzly Fire Safe provides a low-profile metal base that keeps your fire up off of the soil and makes extinguishing your fire a breeze. 

Share the Trail

Respecting restrictions and using only trails open to your mode of transportation is essential. Be aware that, in many parts of the country, trails are open and shared by equestrians, bikers, hikers, and motorized vehicles. Trail sharing works when we all respect each other and work cooperatively to keep each other safe.

In shared use areas, there seems to be some confusion about who has the right of way and when to yield. The Forest Service says, “Wheels Yield to Heels” and it is your responsibility to yield to hikers, bikers, and horses when you’re the one driving. A good rule of thumb is to yield the right of way to those passing you from behind (i.e., a motorcycle passing a truck) or traveling uphill. Always use extra caution when the terrain limits your line of sight. Those of us in motorized vehicles need to take extra care around mountain bikes, runners, hikers, and horses.

Travel Responsibly

Riding with a buddy is always a good idea for safety, but off-roading with a dozen rigs becomes exponentially more impactful. If you’re traveling with multiple vehicles, take particular care when selecting campsites and choosing routes over obstacles as to not widen trails or overly impact camp areas. 

Meadows, lakeshores, and wetlands are particularly fragile, so keeping on the designated route is especially important when driving through sensitive areas. This protects wildlife habitats and sensitive soils from damage.

Photo: Photo by Uriel Mont

When selecting a campsite, the backcountry rule of thumb is that good campsites are found, not made. Choose a campsite that others have already used, if possible, rather than developing a new one. When you’re pulling into camp, pay attention to the dimensions of your rig and make sure you’re not plowing over foliage or damaging your vehicle.

Get Involved!

There is somewhere in the range of 640 million acres of public land in the United States, and if you’re serious about protecting access for off-road adventuring, one of the best things you can do is to volunteer a bit of your time. Whether you’re doing trail maintenance with your local off-road crew, picking up trash at the trailheads, or signing up for a Tread Lightly trainer course, every little bit of education and advocacy helps!